5 LIBRARY OE, CONGRESS.! 

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{ UNITED STATES OK AMERICA. | 



HAND-BOOK 



FRUIT GROWERS, 



CONTAINING 

A SHORT HISTORY OF FRUITS AND THEIR VALUE IN- 
STRUCTIONS AS TO SOILS AND LOCATIONS HOW TO 

GROW FROM SEEDS HOW TO BUD AND GRAFT 

THE MAKING OF CUTTINGS PRUNING BEST 

AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC., ETC. 

WITH A 

CONDENSED LIST OF VARIETIES SUITED TO CLIMATE. 



(illustrated.) 



Made for Those Who Qrow Fruit for Their Own Use. 
a T) BY F.; R. ELLIOTT, 

AUTHOR OF " WESTERN FRUIT GROWERS' GUIDE." 



-++■+- 



v 

ROCHESTER, N. Y. : 



D. M. DEWEY, PUBLISHER, ARCADE. 

1876. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, 

By D. M. DEWEY, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






C. H. STUMP & CO., 
Printers, 
Reynolds' Arcade, Rochester. 



PREFACE 



The preparation of the pages in this work have been in- 
stigated by a long time attention to the wants of those 
who yearly plant out fruit trees, vines and plants. 

Visiting our yearly gatherings of men throughout the 
country at the local, county and state agricultural and 
horticultural societies' meetings, together with the fact 
that not an editor of a journal, more or less devoted to 
the improvement of rural life, and as aid thereto, gives 
items touching of fruit, etc., but is almost daily in re- 
ceipt of questions touching the "How and when to 
plant ? " " What varieties to use ? ' ' has brought us to write 
as plainly and practically as possible, and within a scale 
that may be sold at a price to meet the pocket of every 
man who desires to plant trees or vines in his ground, look- 
ing forward to their producing him valuable fruit, to min- 
ister as food toward health and longevity of life. 

The works of Downing, Thomas, Bakrv and others, 
while embracing the whole matter, yet require an outlay 



IV PREFACE. 

of money, which we hope the reader of our pages herein 
will find equally to his interest, and at a small pecuniary 
cost. 

To those who can afford to buy the three to five dollar 
book, we say, do so; but the work we now present you 
may be placed in the hand of any novice connected with 
tree planting, and enable him to plant and trim a tree or 
vine in such manner that it will prove a success. 



HISTORY AND VALUE OF FRUITS. 



With the limited space given us by the publisher, we can 
but draw a few words touching the first of fruits, and the 
progress thereof to the present day. 

As we read outside of the Bible, we find that more 
than 6,000 years ago the grape, apple, pear, peach, apri- 
cot and plum were grown. Even then the art of grafting 
was known, but the world had not then its many millions, 
as now, nor was a legitimate knowledge of reading and 
writing, among the masses of the people, then prevalent 
as at this time. 

From the first of our biblical teaching, we learn that 
the apple was a feature connected with humanity ; and so 
in every section of country and climate we find fruits, 
natural to the clime, are part and parcel of the food of 
the people. 

When the first settlers of this country landed — say in 
1500 — they brought with them seeds of the apple, pear, 
etc., and many cuttings of vines and flowering plants, 
which they hoped could be grown in the land of their 
adoption. Fortunately, at that time, the forest was such 
as to break the storms, and leaves were so abundant, that 
they could protect the young plants, which soon took 
root in the rich, natural, vegetable loam. 



6 HISTORY AND VALUK OF FRUITS. 

Soon Virginia and other southern localities of this 
country were settled, and the growths of their clime came 
almost super-natural, to the supply of food for mankind. 
Little by little transportation and communication came 
between the north and south of what is now the United 
States of America, and with it has progressed every spe- 
cies and variety of fruit and its culture. 

We have had, during the past century, many enthu- 
siastic workers in the fruit and flower line, — those who 
faithfully believed in advocating to those about to plant, 
a careful study and knowledge from practical men in the 
growth of tree and fruit. 

Our limits, taking in what we want to write practically, 
of how to grow, etc., will not permit us to enumerate by 
name the many men who have labored in the act practi- 
cally, and writing mentally toward the advance of fruit 
culture. Suffice it to say, that not a state north, east, 
south or west but has one or more names long to be 
remembered by every man woman or child who resides 
outside of the dingy, narrow streets and dirty alleys and 
air of a city. 

" God made the country — man made the town ; " please 
take this old truth daily before you in thought, to a perfect 
digestion. 

Ere I leave this chapter I must quote from one of the 
men who knew, believed in, and worked up his subject. 
Doctor J. A. Kennicott, of Illinois, wrote as follows: 

"The free use of ripe fruits not only prevents disease, 
but their regulated enjoyment helps to remove that which 
already exists. All ripe fruits are also more or less nutri- 



SOILS AND LOCATIONS. 7 

tious. It has been clearly demonstrated that the apple 
is superior to the potato in the principles that go to in- 
crease the muscle and brain of man ; and in fattening 
properties it is nearly equal to any other food. Ripe 
grapes have cured epidemic dysentery. Families, where 
fruits are most plentiful, and ripened good, are most free 
from disease of all kinds, especially from fevers and bowel 
complaints. Most fruits aid digestion ; some directly and 
some indirectly, and their free use lessens the desire for 
alcohol or other stimulents. The juicy ones act as dilu- 
ents, and all as diuretics, the free acids neutralizing the 
earth v matters in the blood." 



SOILS AND LOCATIONS BEST ADAPTED. 



The above heading, in the growing of fruits, has many 
and multiple of views by those who have given their record 
in the meetings of agricultural and pomological societies. 
The whole, however, rests in the fact that the tree must 
have its roots where there is an under current of moist- 
ure, that can be taken up by the tap or lower roots, in 
times of dry atmosphere and lack of moisture upon the 
surface. Again, the tree must not be situate in a low val- 
ley, or confined air space, without an underground drain- 
age, for here the cold is increased, and added to the 
moisture of the valley, is often five to seven or ten de- 
grees of Fahrenheit below that of the high ground adjoin- 



8 SOILS AND LOCATIONS. 

ing. The apple called Grimes' Golden, or Grimes' Golden 
Pippin, originated upon a high, well drained, limestone 
point, and is recorded for years of bearing a fine, high 
flavored fruit. To-day it has no favor on average soils 
and locations as a general fruit crop, and has only a single 
star, each of three states, in the American Pomological 
Society's transactions, 1873. 

Some of the most valuable orchards known stand on 
elevated situations, with what is generally termed a thin, 
light, loamy soil, resting upon a basis of rock. In such 
positions the trees do not grow as rapidly as in deeper 
and richer soils, but they become fruitful sooner, and 
continue a long and productive life. 

Thorough drainage in all cases is essential to healthy 
growth of tree and productiveness. Aspect is also a 
material circumstance, and should be modified by the 
climate and variety of fruit to be grown. A peach orch- 
ard will bear warmth better than one of the hardy, firm, 
wooded varieties of apples, pears and plums. It is well 
for the planter to study the position whereon he intends 
to plant, and ere deciding upon positions for certain trees, 
look over the surrounding country, and note the success 
or failure of others who have gone before him in the 
work. According as this is adapted to the growth of the 
variety planted, will be his success.. It is not policy to 
stimulate trees into growing luxuriently, by means of 
manures; a healthy, steady, yearly growth, ripening the 
wood perfectly, forms the most permanent orchard. 



HOW TO GROW FROM SEED. 



The saving of Seeds — From what they should 

BE TAKEN. 

It is a mooted point, even in this intelligent age, as 
to whether certain improvements in the varieties of fruits 
can be had by taking the seed of some one really good 
variety, that is surrounded by or near to other equally 
good varieties, and from their natural impregnations 
come, or whether artificial impregnation of one variety 
upon another of distinct character, termed hybridizing, is 
the best. The former, certainly, so far, has given the 
most valuable results, but the process is one slower than 
the latter, by which results can be shown in about one-half 
the time. As we are now not writing a scientific treatise, 
but trying to make plain, practical matter, by which he 
who reads can practice ; and as we know that the arti- 
ficial impregnation of one flower upon another of a dis- 
tinct class is attended with a knowledge of time to study 
and practice, we shall advise the growing from seed taken 
carefully from some healthy, hardy tree, producing the 
best of fruit, and which is surrounded by others of a 
different yet good character. Ninety times out of a hun- 
dred the seeds so gathered and sown have produced the 
most successful results. 



IO HOW TO GROW FROM SEED. 

We have read much of what has been done, but in all 
cases we cannot speak confidently; but to-day believe our 
best apples, pears, etc., have come from seeds void of 
man's aid in their impregnation. We do know that Prof. 
Jared Potter Kirtland, of Cleveland, Ohio, by taking 
seeds of the cherry from one tree that was near to others 
of different varieties, has produced varieties that to-day 
rank as first class, not only in this country but in Eng- 
land and France. Although we shall again name these 
in our list of varieties to plant, let us name here of the 
Kirtland cherries, the " Black Hawk," " Brant," " Deli- 
cate," "Ohio Beauty," "Cleveland," " Rockport," and 

Pontiac." This same amateur grower has produced 
of the Tree Peony, varieties of greater beauty than any 
we have received from abroad. 

Having now said from what seeds varieties of fruits 
should be grown, or the stocks used to graft or bud upon, 
leaving the two or three lower limbs to show the fruit of 
the seedling, we will say, that no fruit seed should ever 
be permitted to get dry. It should be gathered, washed 
cleanly, and then packed in light layers among clean sand 
or charcoal dust, and kept free from heat or warmth, until 
the ground in spring is warm enough to sprout vegetation. 
The better and plain way of keeping the seed is to bury 
the packages on the north side of a building, and covering 
with three to four inches of earth. This keeps the seeds 
dormant until time for planting in spring. The nut fruit 
seeds, like peach and plum, had best be carefully cracked. 
The cherry will open of itself, and should be first planted 
in spring. 



BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING OF SORTS, 

How to do it, — Also the best Season. 



'The best age for transplanting apples, pears or plums 
as standards — that is trees grown upon roots of their spe- 
cific sorts, is at two years from the growth of the bud or 
graft. The pear grown upon the quince, the apple upon 
the Doucain or Paradise stock, the peach upon the plum, 
the apricot and nectarine upon the plum, — should be 
planted at one year from growth of bud or graft. 

If the trees come from a nursery, not grown by yourself 
and upon your own ground, — then ist, wet the package, 
on receipt, before opening. 2d, dig a trench in some 
light, dry soil, into which you can heel in the trees or 
shrubs. Lay these trees at an angle of about forty-five 
degrees, the tops at the south and so that the roots and 
half the length of the bodies be covered with earth. The 
roots eighteen inches deep, and the bodies ranging from 
six to two inches as you go from the upper or crown roots 
of the tree to the top. 

Trees received in autumn too late for planting, throw 
some brush over the whole and scatter thereon straw or 
leaves, to shield from sun and cold during winter. 



12 BEST AGK FOR TRANSPLANTING. 

Trees can be transplanted safely at any age, but in the 
work there must be knowledge of the man who guides 
it, as well as workmen careful of their work among the 
roots. The old practice of moving trees by frozen balls 
of roots caused by digging around in late autumn and 
left to freeze, and be moved in mid-winter we have long 
since abandoned, knowing that careful digging of the 
roots and preserving them, either early in autumn or early 
spring, the tree can be moved with better success and 
less expense than the old ball handling. 

The writer of this has moved trees — both deciduous 
and evergreen — in mid-summer, without failure. The 
growth of the season, however, must have formed and 
ripened with a terminal bud, and when deciduous trees 
were removed at that time, the foliage was all removed 
by clipping it from the petiole half way to the bud. With 
evergreens we clip back nearly all of the present year's 
growth, leaving one bud only upon the wood of the 
present year. 

The best season to plant out, we may say, is very early 
in autumn or early spring. Location and climate must, 
however guide the rule. In the Southern States mid- 
winter is the time. In the Southwest, March and April, 
not later, is the time. In the temperate, or zone of most 
of our hardy trees, early autumn for apple, pear and 
plum; for peach, apricot, grape, nectarine, early, spring. 
The North, as of Minnesota, Canada, etc., had best ob- 
tain their trees in the autumn, heel them in as we have 
described, and not plant until the ground is a little 
warmed in spring. 



BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING. 13 

Ere we leave this chapter on planting, let us remind 
those who plant, that the holes should be four inches 
at least larger than the diameter of the roots ; that the 
base center of the hole should be just a little crowning ; 
that the roots should be carefully spread as they natur- 
ally grow, and fine, rich earth — no manure — placed in 
and around them, by the fingers of the hand outspread. 
Place the tree so that its upper tier of roots will be cover- 
ed four inches. Do not tread with the foot upon the loose 
ground over the roots, for it only has a tendency to bend 
them out of place, and a crooked root is sure to make a 
crooked tree. The hand or spread finger pressure of 
the earth firmly at the base of the tree will cause it to 
stand firmly and never need" a stake or outside support. 
The writer of this has planted thousands of trees from 
one foot to forty feet in height, and never used a stake. 
Mulching, with coarse manure at first, then in June with 
fresh mown grass, a distance of say six feet diameter 
around the body and over the roots is what is needed 
the first year after transplanting. 



WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT, 
Or make Cuttings or Layers. 



Budding is a process of propagation of varieties ; so 
also grafting and growing from cuttings or layers. There 
are various modes of performing the work, and however 
well we or other authors may describe it, we advise every 
new beginner to visit a leading nurseryman or amateur 
fruit grower in his immediate neighborhood, where he 
can learn more in a half day of observation than all of 
what is printed. In order to be successful, both the 
stock and graft or bud should be in a healthy, vigorous 
state. 

The time to bud is generally with the cherry and plum, 
in August following with pear, apple and peach. The 
name of the month here specified is indicative of the sea- 
son, and taken as a guide for the northern and middle 
States. The grafting period is usually upon the ap- 
proach of spring, but grafts, in large quantities are 
made upon pieces of roots during winter and packed 
away in sand to be planted in spring. 

Cuttings of buds, for budding, may be made at any 
time when the tree has formed its terminal buds of growth 
for the year and the buds are ripe. 



WHEN AND HOW TO HUD OR GRAFT 



15 



Grafts may be taken from the tree or vine any time 
after the leaf of the year has fallen, reference however 
being had to the temperature of atmosphere, which 
should never be below freezing. The various modes of 
budding may be described as follows : 




American Shield Budding, first described by Forsyth 
in 1802. It differs from the common shield budding 
only in leaving a small piece of wood at the base of the 
bud inserted, instead of taking all out. An incision is 
made lengthwise through the back of the stock, and a 
small cut at right angles at the top, the whole somewhat 
resembling the letter T . — (see fig. 3.) A bud is then 
taken from a shoot of the present year's growth, by shav- 
ing off the bark an inch or so in length, with a small part 
of the wood directly beneath the bud. — (see fig. 4.) The 
edges of the bark, at the incision in the stock, are then 
raised a little — (see fig. 5,) and the bud pushed downward 
under the bark. — (see fig. 6.) This work is generally 
performed with what is termed a budding knife, one end 
of the handle of which is of ivory or bone, and so smoothly 
shaped that removing or loosening the bark to admit the 
bud, does not injure the tender fibrous lines beneath. 



l6 WHEN AND HOW TO HUD OR GRAFT. 

A bandage of bass bark — (from what is known as 
Russia matting, or made from stripping of our Linden or 
Bass-wood trees in the spring, and tempered into strips 
by keeping it in water for a time,) is then wrapped around, 
commencing at the bottom and passing the bud, returning 
again and tying just below, covering all but the bud. — 
(see fig. 7.) The pressure should be just sufficient to 
keep the inserted portion closely to the stock, but not 
such as to crush or bruise the bark. Woolen yarn, 
or soft strips of old cotton cloth may be used as substi- 
tutes for ties in place of the bass bark . 

In about ten days or two weeks after insertion, the 
strings or bandages will require to be loosened, and at 
expiration of three weeks removed altogether. 

The ensuing spring, as soon as the buds begin to 
swell strongly, cut off the stock about six inches above 
the bud ; and as the shoots of the bud grows, tie it with 
any soft material to the piece of stock above its insertion, 
until about mid-summer, or when it has made tw T o feet of 
growth, when the stock should be cut away above the 
bud — back of it, and leaving a sloping cut downward 
from the top of the insertion of the bud. 

When you are inserting buds, never put the bases of 
the stems on which they are, in water. Keep them wrap- 
ped in a damp cloth, free from the sun's influence. 
Again, when you cut the shoots or buds for insertion, at 
once cut away the leaf, otherwise the evaporation will ex- 
haust and injure its vitality. 

Buds, having the leaf removed, may be kept fresh and 
full of vitality for a number of days, if placed in a cool 



WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT 



17 



room and wrapped in damp moss or cloths. If they are 
to be mailed they should have damp moss wrapped around 
them, and then be enveloped in oiled silk or linen. 

Ring Budding is another style, adapted to hard wood 
wood trees, as the chestnut, magnolia, etc. It is question- 
able whether this is as good as side grafting, for which see 
heading. In performing this a ring of bark is taken 
from a limb or stock, and one of corresponding size, con- 
taining a bud, is put in its place, (see fig. 8.) Trees 




Fig. 8. 

that have been girdled by mice or rabbits during winter, 
may be restored by the process of simply putting in live 
bark from a tree of its kind. Another way is to insert a 
number of grafts early in spring, each cut with a sloping 
cut on the inside at both ends, meeting with the albumen 
or sap rising formation in the large limb or stock. 

In either of these practices, the whole should be cover- 
ed with grafting wax, either applied with a brush or having 
been spread upon cloth, and then wrapped over the whole. 
2 



GRAFTING. 



This, like budding, has numerous modes of being 
performed. It is perhaps one of the most plainly un- 
derstood, practically, from reading, of any course of pro- 
pagation . 

Whip or Tongue Grafting. — This is most generally 
practised when the stock and scion are nearly of an equal 
size. The whole gist of it lies in so forming the graft 
and stock that the two outer surfaces of albumen, or 
wood of last year's growth, meet one with the other ; or 
if the stock or scion be either too large, the outer line of 
the last year's growth shall match on one side. — (see 
fig 10.) The tongue is a notch cut in the stock, corres- 




F i g . i o . 

ponding with one cut in the graft, each having a lip, as it 
were, to meet each other, and when put together, serve as 



GRAFTING 



!9 



a support in steadying the graft, until the circulation of 
the sap has united it with the stock. 

This system is practised largely by nurserymen in the 
propagation of the apple, and is generally called root graft- 
ing. The work as we have before said, can be done in 
mid-winter, — the roots and grafts kept in sand for spring 
planting; or it can be done upon stocks in the open 
ground in spring, or upon limbs of trees in bearing, and 
upon which the owner desires to see many varieties. 

Splice Grafting is similar to the foregoing, except that 
no slit is made in either stock or graft, and consequently 
it is not counted as desirable. — (see fig. n.) 



Fig . ii. 

Crown Grafting is another mode. It is rarely done, 
however, except upon small stocks standing in the 'ground 
near the upper rootlet or fiber. — (see # fig. 12.) 

Saddle Grafting. — This is one which we have found 
practically of value with the cherry, peach, plum, apri- 
cot, etc., and especially if we had a new variety that was 
received late, (fig. 13,) — shows it with the stock pared 
obliquely on both sides until it becomes an inverted 



20 



GRAFTING. 



wedge. The scion is then slit up the center and sides 
pared down to fit the sides of the stock. 




Fig 



12 



Side Grafting. — This is one of the modes best adapted 
in the grafting of the cherry, peach, plum, grape, magno- 
lia, chestnut, etc., when grafts are not of full vigor. As 




Fig 13. 

may be seen in our cut — (see fig. 9) — a notch or slit of 
about one inch long is cut in the side of the stock — 
paring the outer portion, then splitting the graft and 
paring both the inner and outer portion, so that when in- 



GRAFTING. 21 

serted there will be a union of the bark and wood. The 
graft should be wrapped with grafting clay or wax — usu- 
ally wax on a cloth is best — and the stock should not be 
headed in until the graft shows signs of union, and then, 
the pruning back should be gradual. 

Cleft Grafting is an old mode rarely now practised. 
It consists in sawing the stock or limb off square, then 
splitting it down with grafting knife or chisel, cutting the 
lower end of the scion in the form of a wedge, and insert- 
ing it, so that one side, at least, will be in association with 




***-; Fig. 9. 

the albumen or inner bark. The withdrawing of the chisel 
or knife holds the scion or graft firm, and it may L then 
be protected from" storms by grafting wax or clay. 

Grafting Wax is made in various ways. The following 
has credit of value : four parts rosin, three parts of bees- 
wax, three parts lard. When well mixed dip cotton cloth 
in it while warm, and afterward cut them to meet the use 
you require. 

Making Cuttings, whether^ of currant, gooseberry or 
grape, any time* from the fall of the leaf of the season, 
until two or three weeks previous to the starting of spring 
growth is a good time. 

The gooseberry and currant cuttings should be, say 
eight inches in length, and of the present year's growth 



22 



GRAFTING. 



from the strongest shoots. The grape cuttings should be 
made any time from the fall of the leaf in the autumn until 
the buds commence to swell in the spring. At no time 
should they be taken from the vine, when the thermome- 
ter is below freezing. 

The cuttings should be of the best and ripest wood. 
Any well ripened wood cut with two eyes on it, as shown 
in figure 5 , is all that is requisite ; and yet we confess a 
penchant for the old style of mallet cutting, which is 
shown in our figure 6. It differs from the former only in 
the fact that it is made with an inch or less of the old 




Figs. 5. 6. 

wood attached to the base of the cutting, and in that 
attachment, of base, or crown is supposed to be stored 
up a greater amount of vital life-giving power than can 
be concentrated in any one distinct bud — that junction 
or connection being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant 
so long as the main bud exists, but ready to do service 
as soon as that is destroyed. 



LAYERING (IRA PES. 



2 3 



LAYERING GRAPES. 




Some varieties, like the Delaware, do not grow readily 
from cuttings when planted in the open ground. If you 
have a grape vine, say three years old, in spring, just as 
the buds begin to swell, lay down upon the ground such 
vines as start from nearest the crown or ground. Mark 
the space ; then dig it away about six inches deep, in 
the form of a long, narrow trench. Stretch and peg 
down (<£,) the vine as shown in the accompanying sketch. 
As soon as the buds have grown about eight inches, 
a slight clipping with the knife directly underneath the 
bud, (a,) and fill up the trench with a good soil, fastening 
the extreme end with the peg at (/?.) In the autumn 
each bud or new plant will be found with roots, as at (d.) 
When one single strong plant only is wanted to be ob- 
tained by layering, bend a strong shoot and cut away the 
end buds back to one good strong bud, and let this alone 
grow . 



PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING, 

and for two or three years thereafter of the 
Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach, Grape, etc. 



Trees received from the dealers, in the hands of nurse- 
rymen, are often, we regret to say, so wretchedly taken 
up and packed as to be almost worthless. Again there 
are men who as tree dealers, are just as reliable and hon- 
est as the man for whom they take an order. The 
buyer must beware of an agent that has no vouchers of 
the fact that he is their agent, and his beat, like a police- 
man's, is over a certain territory. 

Now, when we write for the public, as to how to treat 
these trees, when received, and how to prune them at 
transplanting, we have a wide field to fill. We expect 
criticism from every tree salesman and so, more or less 
from those who send out their agents. Nevertheless, 
we will and must say here, and forever hereafter, that 
the planting of orchards, and culture of fruits, is largely 
due to the tree agents, who have engaged in the going 
among our comparatively isolated people, and showing 
them specimens of fruits; also colored illustrations of the 
same, with a promise to deliver % trees that will produce 



PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 25 

the same, at a certain time on payment of the regular rates 
of the growers or nurserymen. 

With this preface to our treating, let us say that when 
your trees are to hand by means of packing, and trans- 
portation, you will from neglect of the transporters, find 
some dried, and others with the tops broken, etc. 
Some, and most, at this period, are cased in boxes, so 
that broken tops etc., cannot be laid to the charge of the 
transporters. 

When the trees come to your hands, have ready a trench 
to imbed the roots ; but ere you imbed them take each tree, 
and with a sharp knife, from the under, toward the upper 
side of the root \ cut it smooth, taking away all the rugged 
lines ; next take the top branches and as apparently of 
the roots; they should be shortened in the main branches, 
one-quarter to two-thirds of the past years growth, while 
all of the small twigs, or limbs, be cut cleanly to a line of 
the branch from which they grow. 

This done, and our rule for planting pursued — see fore- 
going — no special care will be needed until one year has 
passed; then the trees should be gone over again, say at 
the time near to the formation of the terminal buds of 
growth of the year ; care in pruning should now be es- 
pecially given to the shortening in of irregular branches 
that show tendency to destroy the true roundish upright 
head ; small slender twigs should be cut away close to the 
branch from where they have grown. Do not leave a 
knob of half an inch projection, but cut clean and smooth, 
and the wound will soon heal. 



26 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 

Trees pruned yearly, judiciously, without too much of 
thinning out of the tops, because our hot suns require 
foliage to shade the limbs far more than in climates of 
more regular and even temperature ; will rarely require 
to have a large limb removed. Old orchards that have 
been neglected, it is best to go over at the same time given 
above for young trees. Do not practice the use of an axe 
and leave a knob of six inches, to either send out many 
sprouts, or rot and decay, sending its poison into the sap 
that goes to form new wood. Use a pruning saw, and 
trim all smooth with a knife ; then paint or gum over, the 
fresh cut. 

Soft wooded trees like the peach or grape vine, a half 
inch or so should be left above the bud ; but with these 
rarely is it necessary to cut limbs or canes over half to 
three-quarters of an inch diameter. 

The standard apple, pear and plum, should have their 
first branches start at about three to four feet from the 
ground, while those to be treated as dwarfs, as the apple 
on Paradise stock, pear on quinces, peach on plums, 
should have the lower branches start from about one foot 
from the ground, and yearly so pruned as to cause them 
to form a pyramidal shape at first ; this being brought 
into a rounded head, at the end of three or more years, 
by shortening the leading upper shoots the most. 

There are a few leading points in the pruning and cul- 
ture of trees, of which Dubreuil, a french author who has 
been largely quoted, gives some good points in pruning; 
in others, our practice leads us to think he fails. When 



PRUNING* AT TRANSPLANTING. 27 

he says:— we quote—" that the vigor of a tree, subjected 
to priming, depends in a great measure, on the equal 
distribution of sap in all its branches," he is measurably 
correct; but when he adds : " the most vigorous parts, 
should be pruned short, at the same time leaving the weak 
shoots long," we think he errs; for our experience has 
been, that cutting back the strong shoots to two, or three 
buds, and leaving the inferior shoots long, has broken 
the form of growth we would have in the leading shoots, 
and left us at two years, with a mass of puny branches 
to be cut away as refuse and unsightly. 

All this varies however in the varieties of trees ; some 
have little or no tendency to throw out small twigs, as Te- 
tofsky and Red Astrachan apple, Bartlett and Clapp's 
Favorite pear, etc; and while it has been said, and is by 
many advocated to-day, that a tree once rightly started, 
and then left to itself, free of pruning, will most fully de- 
velop its sap, and come into bearing more healthfully 
than when trained to meet the mind of man. 

Again in pruning, it is said by Dubreuil, that when 
the tree comes into bearing, the leaving of a large quantity 
on the strong shoots, and removing it mainly from the 
feeble, that the sap on the strong wood, will be absorbed 
by the fruit, and it will make little growth, while the 
parts will increase in size ; this does not coincide with 
our experience. A practice of this course two years 
found us with little, or no good sized or rich fruit ; but 
with our tree, all cluttered and out of shape. 

We would, that the limit of the work designed by the 



28 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 

publisher would permit us to carry out the whole of this 
subject, but we fear it will not ; we will only add, that in 
all of pruning of the pear, apple, or cherry, and perhaps 
other varieties, no knife should ever be used after the first 
three years from transplanting ; walking through the orch- 
ard and seeing here and there a limb growing too fast to 
meet equality in after time of ks associates ; just a pinch 
of the finger and thumb, breaking away to a bud ; the 
soft wood of the end is all th,e pruning that is required. 
Nature is wild and is responsible, like mankind ; but like 
mankind, she does best with just a gentle check here and 
there, now and then. 



THE GRAPE. 



We have shown in a former article, a chapter how to 
form the grape cutting for out of door growing. We now 
propose to show how to plant and prune the grape, which 
next to, if not superior to the pear, is bound to be part 
and parcel of every small homestead, and from it, on to 
its hundreds of acres for supply of its luscious and health- 
ful food to the millions that have no garden grounds. 

Once upon a time, the writer had much to do with var- 
ieties of grapes, the growing from cuttings, layers, etc., 
and came to the conclusion that a good, strong, healthy, 
well rooted plant, grown with space of one foot apart, 
was better and more likely to be successful than the plant 
grown from a single eye and only three inches apart in a 
frame. My estimate is now appreciated by one who 
watched my work, and who says how that every year- 
ling grape grown from a cutting should have eighteen 
inches of space to make it really valuable. 

But let me show the reader of this book my illustra- 
tions of how I made cuttings, and how the roots and 
growth showed. They all had the same care and soil. 
As before said, in an item of how to form a grape cut- 
ting for out-door culture, we present the following illus- 
trations. Figure A shows a cutting made of two buds, all 



3° 



THE GRAPE. 



the lower part being rasped with a coarse wood file, cross- 
wise over the surface, and breaking up the continuity of 
outline, tearing and destroying the outer cuticle or^bark, 




Fig. A. 

and rendering the wood more accessible to the action of 
moisture and heat. Some growers shave all the bark off 
from the lower end of the cutting. There are some 
doubts of the practical value of this method. We have 
been unable to perceive that the cuttings so shaved or 
rasped made any more certain or vigorous growth. In 
Delaware and Nortons we fail to grow, say ten per cent. 
Why, when they all apparently are equally good cuttings, 
have the same handling, etc., is this so? 




Fig. B. 
Figure B is a representation of a two-eyed Delaware, 



THE GRAPE. 3 1 

prepared and grown with the rasping process. The lower 
roots' were strong and good, but the wood below the bud 
all destroyed. 

The cutting called the mallet differs only in the fact 
that it is made with an inch or less of the old, or two- 
year-old wood attached to the base of the cutting; and in 
that attachment of base or crown, are supposed to. be 
stored up a greater amount of vital, life-giving power than 
can be concentrated in any one distinct bud, that junction 
or bud being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant so long as 
the main bud exists, but ready to do service as soon as 
that is destroyed. 




Fig. C. 

Figure C shows a representation of this cutting; and 
we are strongly disposed to believe that when the most 
sound, healthy plants, vigorous 'in every essential of vital 
life, are wanted, they must be procured from cuttings 
made to embrace this junction of old and new wood; 
wherein, as in the crown of the seedling tree, the most of, 
life-giving power exists. We do not doubt but that under 
care and culture, the plants grown from single eyes, or 
two-eyed cuttings of last year's wood, may in time become 
full and perfect; but their growth is constantly enfeebled, 
and more and more, as the buds from which they are 
grown are destitute of full and perfect life. 

The ground in which these were planted, after being 
kept in sand, so that they exhibited a slight callous or 



3 2 



THE GRAPE. 



little white lip of delicate tissue, just around the outer 
edge of the lower cut was of a light sandy loam, and 
after planting the cuttings, old tan-bark was spread two 
inches deep over them. 

Most of the cuttings were put under the soil two 
inches above the top of the bud. 




Fig. i 



Fig. i is from one of the strongest woods and buds, 
having an inch of wood below the bud. Its roots and top 
are strong ; the number of large roots not as many as in 
fig. B ; but they are longer and stronger. Let me say just 
here that the wood growth was not all alike 



THE GRAPE. 



33 




Fig. 2. 

Fig. 2 is a representation of a single bud of wood like 
fig. i ; but its vitality was not the same, consquently the 
growth is not the same. 

Fig. 3 shows the growth of roots and top of fig. i, in 
the spring of the following year. 

It is to be regretted that I have now no drawing of the 
roots of the best of the cuttings, as the mallet cutting 
having a piece of the old wood at the base of lower bud 
of the cutting. 

Having shown partly, but not quite fully, the growing 
from the cutting, let me come to quotations of a thorough- 



34 THE GRAPE. 

bred cultivator of the grape, and I believe the readers of 
this book will not regret it. 




Fig. 3. 

He says, " I have been looking over my former year's 
work, have been reading back or rather over again the 
views of others, and, after studying all, I took my spade 
and digging fork and went to an Isabella vine, planted 
some ten years or more since, and which has never shown 
any disease, but yearly ripened its fruit regularly and 
evenly. It was in clay soil. I dug carefully all around it 
a distance of four feet each way from the vine, or eight 
feet diameter, took out a trench with spade, then with my 
fork I commenced to shake out roots, but there was no 
direct tap-root of any size, and altogether the larger por- 
tion of the roots were within ten inches of the surface. 
Small roots, as large as a goose quill, it is true, were 
apparently* down below. Some of them pulled up in lift- 
ing the vine, others broke off, but there was not a large or 
main root so situated. 

It may not be that this is any guide showing the general 



THE GRAPE. 35 

habit of roots of the vine, when grown in vineyards of clay 
soils and yearly pruned ; but for the present I think I will 
so consider it, and when I plant, avoid as I have gen- 
erally heretofore, setting my roots too deep. Most writers 
on the grape tell us that the roots must be planted deep, 
at least they must have ten inches of soil over and above 
the upper root of the plant ; and they tell us that if the 
plants are too small for such purpose, then we must ex- 
cavate a basin, set the plant, and as it grows, fill up around 
the stem. In my soil, if the spring proved a rainy one, 
were I to plant in that way I should have my labor for my 
pains ; for all the plants would rot before they could 
possibly grow sufficiently to allow the earth to be drawn 
to a level. 

The following figure shows this mode of planting as I 
understand it : 



A straight line drawn across from the ends of the 
dotted line would show the level of the ground; the dotted 
line the excavation, with the plant having two eyes, and 
set in just deep enough to cover the lower eye or bud 
with soil. The roots are shortened as here shown, to 
about eighteen inches in length, and spread out regularly, 
setting the base of the main stem on a little mound or 
rise — not a sharp cone, but a broad mound. 

I have practised this mode as an experiment, and with 



36 THE GRAPE. 

a disposition to try all ways, but in three successive years 
I failed of getting as early a growth, nor did my vines 
make up for lost time in the hot months of summer, as has 
been sometimes stated they would. 

The next manner of planting, highly recommended by 
good cultivators, I have followed with good results. It is 
to prepare the ground where this plant is to stand by 
finely pulverizing it, then excavate a breadth or circle 
sufficiently wide to admit of straightening out the entire 
roots of the vine without cutting away a single inch ; 
make the excavation about six inches deep at the outside 
of the circle, and rising so that the center is four inches 
below the level of the surrounding ground. The accom- 
panying figure shows this method, the straight line being 



the surface of the earth, thexlotted line below that of the 
mound on which the plant is placed before filling in the 
earth. This depth for planting I believe a good one, but 
I fail to find any gain from leaving so much root ; and as 
it increases the labor and expense of planting fully one- 
half, I think I shall follow out my old plan, viz : — with my 
knife I cut away every small fiber or thread-like root, and 
all that are as large around as one of Faber's lead 
pencils, I shorten back to sixteen or eighteen inches, then 



THK GRAFK. 37 

prepare my holes with the mound in center, and plant 
just as when the roots are of full length. 

I never use any water or muck for dipping my roots 
when setting, but I keep them well wrapped in a wet cloth, 
from which I take out one at a time, as wanted for 
planting. " 

As an item of record, it may be well to say, that single 
grape vines trained upon a wall, say of a house or barn, 
and well supplied with food at the root, will often produce 
all that one family would need. On Kelley Island, we 
once saw a vine of Catawba, the roots of which were 
near where the daily wash of slops, soap-suds, etc., were 
thrown from the house, and from which, yearly, two to 
three hundred pounds of ripe grapes were gathered. 

It is said that one of the largest grape vines in the world 
is at Montecilo, near Santa Barbara, California. It is 
estimated to be over one hundred years old, is nearly five 
feet in circumference, and rises eight feet erect from the 
root, where it branches out in every direction. It is said 
to have produced six tons of grapes in one season, and 
that fifteen hundred gallons of wine have been made from 
it in one year. 

WHEN TO PRUNE. 

The best time is just at the fall of the vine leaf in Oc- 
tober. Let the main pruning be at that time, if it be 
possible to command that time ; but if the work cannot 
then be done, do it if you can, before severe freezing 
weather ; if not then done, postpone it until there comes 



38 THE GRAPE. 

a regular thaw in winter — say a week or ten days of soft, 
moist weather, when the frost is nearly or quite out of the 
ground — and then don't neglect your duty any longer. 

HOW TO PRUNE. 

This is the second question, and one that is answered 
so variously by writers on grape growing, and is talked of 
so oppositely by vignerons, that an answer in any way will 
be said by some to be assuming ; but, having studied the 
grape pretty thoroughly, and having read every treatise of 
which we have ever heard, and practised, or observed the 
practise of each writer, we feel that what we say of " How 
to Prune," if practised, will result in success to the pro- 
prietor of the vine on which it is performed. 

Each variety almost, will, after the first two years, re- 
quire a distinct system — so that any general rule for grape 
pruning of our vines would fall to the ground if attempted 
to be practised. The grape grower must first learn the 
habit and character of his variety, and then he can adapt 
his pruning and training to a mode or system consonant 
with its class. 

But, of " How to Prune," let us say, first, that summer 
pruning — that is, cutting away of foliage after the blossom 
has opened — is now counted, by the majority of vignerons, 
as an error ; and the reason for the error is, that each leaf 
and end of a shoot has a corresponding connection with 
the spongioles or feeding ends of the roots, and once the 
leaf or shoot connecting therewith is broken, the spongi- 
ole rootlet, or feeding mouth, is affected — is closed from 



THE GRAPE. 39 

its natural action, and, as a consequence, rot and decay 
ensue, creating at the root of the vine, a fungoid disease 
which, if the same system of summer pruning were per- 
sisted in, would, in a few years, result in apparent out- 
ward disease of the vine, and in rot and mildew of the 

fruit. 

Having said this much of summer pruning, let us now 
suppose you have a vine planted this past spring, and that 
you have permitted it, as you should, to grow just as 
many or just as few shoots or vines as it pleased ; but now 
you want to put it into shape, so that next year it will in- 
crease in strength of root and prepare itself to give you 
fruit the year following. Take then your knife and cut 
away all the small canes, selecting the largest and best in 
the center, or as grown from the strongest center bud, and 
cut that so that your vine will be as represented in Fig. i. 




Fig. i. 
This first season all vines may be acceptably pruned in 
this way ; but when the growth in spring comes, it be- 
hooves the grower to know his vine and his soil. For 
while a Concord, Hartford, or Norton, etc., will in good 



40 THE GRAPE. 

soil be the* better for permitting the three buds here shown 
to grow, the Delaware, Rebecca, Mottled, Elsinborough 
and some others, will be better to have only two buds per- 
mitted to grow. As the buds start in spring there will be 
more or less of sucker sprouts start from the root, and 
the dormant bud at base of the main bud will often start ; 
the vine must then be watched, and as soon as a shoot 
appears, other than the two or three strong ones from the 
regular buds, they should be at once rubbed out, and 
thenceforward, during the summer, rub or prune no more ; 
let all grow ; for although old time cultivators will tell you 
to cut or pull away the laterals, we tell you that the later- 
als serve to add to the size and vigor of the lower part of 
the cane, and the buds thereon, and every additional 
ripened leaf adds to the volume and strength of the root 
for the coming year's aid. 

Supposing your vine to have been a Delaware or Re- 
becca, or any of that class of short jointed, comparatively 
slow growers, it will, at the close of the second season, 
present much the appearance of Fig. 2 ; but if it has been 
a Concord, Hartford, Wilder, etc., then you must add a 
third cane to make our figure exhibit what your vine 
should be in September of the year. 

And now your season for pruning has again come, and 
by its pruning you hope for fruit the coming season. 
Your Concord, Hartford, or other strong growing kinds, 
having been grown to three strong canes, if your posts 
and wires are put up, and it is pruned and tied, it will, or 
should, look very much like Fig. 3, on page 44. 

Each of these canes has three buds, and the two upper 



THE GRAPE, 



4* 




Fig . 2 



4 2 



THE GRAPE. 



buds on each cane are to produce fruit, while the cane on 
the lower bud is to have whatever fruit it will set rubbed 
away, and the canes trained for fruiting another year. 

On vines — say those of five or more years old, and 
with such varieties as Concord, etc. — these canes should 
be much longer, and have, when pruned in autumn, from 
eight to ten buds each, and then in spring, each alternate 
bud should be rubbed out, just before the blossoming of 
the vine. Fig. 4 is a representative of an irregular grown 




Fig. 4. 

vine of the past or second year, and now cut to two canes 
of four buds each, with a spur cane at the base of one of 
them, from which to grow canes for the coming or suc- 
ceeding year. This, with its four buds to a cane, it is 
supposed should have the lower and the third buds rub- 



THE GRAPE. 43 

bed out before the setting of fruit, while the upper and 
second buds will give each three bunches, making twelve 
bunches, full as much as any young vine should bear. So 
much, in a condensed form, of " How to Prune." 

Thus far the vines have been trained to simple rough 
stakes • but now the trellis must be erected, as the next 
•or third season will require its use. Iron wire is found 
the cheapest and best for the purpose ; the tendrils of the 
vine cling to it, which they never do to wood, and thus 
very much of the labor of tying is saved. The size of 
the wire generally used is classed as No. 9. It should be 
annealed in order to make it tough. 

ROWS OF TRELLIS. 

" The rows of the trellis," say some vignerons, "should 
run north and south, because at the period that the grapes 
are ripening they obtain more of the direct rays of the sun 
than when they run east and west ; the sun being low at 
that season, part of the vines are always m the shade 
Other practical men urge the east and west lines, be- 
cause " they say, " at the season of ripening of the grapes, 
the midday suns heat and reflect from the ground much 
stronger upon the full face of the vine, than when the 
rows are north and south." 

I have seen the perfect ripening of both lines, and con- 
sider that more is due to the cultivation, soil and pruning 
than the position of the trellis. 



44 



THE GRAPE 



PUTTING UP THE TRELLIS 



Strong posts are to be set at each end of the rows and 
braced, as shown in Figure 3. These braces are from 




Fig. 3. 

eight to twelve feet long, and fastened at the bottom to a 
post set firm in the ground ; then at a distance of eighteen 



THE GRAPE. 45 

or twenty feet on the line of the row, set other posts, leav- 
ing each post about six feet out of the ground. 

NUMBER OF WIRES. 

Three or four wires are required, placed at a distance 
of eighteen to twenty inches upward from the ground. 
Three wires are sufficient except for very strong vines, 
when the fourth is advisable for the purpose of securing 
the upper growths, and preventing their falling down over 
the lower vines and fruit. 

The vines should be fastened at one end post, then 
stretched along the line. At each middle or intervening 
post theVires are raised and a staple is driven partially 
into the'post in such manner as to keep the wire at the re- 
quired height. Next, the wires are drawn as tight as pos- 
sible and fastened at the opposite end, and then each 
staple on the intervening post is driven home, so as to 
fully secure the wire and cause a certain amount of 
strain to rest on each post. 



SMALL FRUITS. 



VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 

There is in this class of our fruits varieties of every cul- 
ture and suited to almost all soils and climates. Of 
course when bleak cold winds prevail during the dormant 
season of the year, more or less of protection must be 
given. 

With Strawberries one must to a certain extent give 
credit to the line of latitude below 40 deg.. and strange as 
it may seem to many, the Wilson's Albany, which origina- 
ted at the north, and is generally grown both in family and 
market gardens, is the most popular berry at the south. 
The Newman's has favor from a few in South Carolina, 
but Georgia says, that " it is a large and showy berry, but 
is inferior in quantity." 

The Triomph de Gand holds as a family or near market 
berry, the first place. 

Longworth's Prolific, Downer's Prolific, Green's Pro- 
lific, Ida, Charles Downing stand well in all the South. 
Yearly many new varieties are brought before the public, 
and they are often written of, yet records of associations, 
where people profess to meet and give information as to 



SMALL FRUITS. 47 

value, etc., of sorts, little is obtained. The Almighty 
Dollar covers all of those who have invested in a variety 
with a view to its sale. 

To amateurs, those who care only for their own table 
eating, we advise the Nicanor, Triomph de Gand, Lennig's 
White, and Royal Hautbois, adding if you have room, 
President Wilder and Trollope's Victoria. 

We present herewith an illustration of the Nicanor, the 
name meaning " The Queen," and which F. R. Elliott, 




of Cleveland, had the honor of naming and first describ- 
ing. It is a variety of value that should be not only in 
private grounds, but also of those of the market gardener. 

Many more varieties it is well to mention, but our re- 
cord given elsewhere covers all that can yet be depended 
upon. 

We have Boy den's AV30, or Seth Boy den, Barnes' Mam- 
moth, Crimson Cone, Monarch of the West, La Constante, 
Mary White, Sterling, Margaret, Mary Stuart, Kentucky, 
have each, in their time been lauded. 

Could we who write grow the La Constante as does 
James A. Doug all, of Windsor, Canada, a town just 



48 SMALL FRUITS. 

opposite Detroit in Michigan, we would never be without 
it. It is the berry of all when well grown. Now don't 
let any obtain it, unless they intend to grow it carefully, 
cultivated in rich deep soil, annually surface supplied with 
food. We do wish it was more grown, but there is no 
profit in it, except to minister to the palate and pleasure 
of our friends. 

We will now quote touching Strawberries, a few items 
from a writer who is posted. He says, speaking first of 
the Alpine or Hautbois class, as follows: — 

" I have been looking over some of my old notes and 
comments made, and I find that they record every time 
the speech of men and women in favor of the delicacy 
and peculiar flavor that belongs to this class of strawber- 
ries — a class which is acknowledged unprofitable for the 
commercial grower, but for those who grow only for their 
own table of unrivaled flavor and excellence. 

In my own garden I have grown the Red Alpine and 
Prolific Hautbois more than twenty-five years, and have 
never had a failure ; anH to be left without them now 
should feel that I was either behind the age or the age 
was not cognizant of the natures of these varieties for 
family use. The latter I now believe the true state of the 
case, but am willing to be corrected — if any one conceives 
it possible. 

I do not believe the amateur grower of strawberries, — 
whether done by himself or professional employed gard- 
ener, — should ever be guided by quantity produced, or 
even size ; for these two elements almost always militate 
against the quality. Let them cultivate in the strawberry 



SMALL FRUITS. 49 

for their tables the refinement of culture they claim to ex- 
ercise in that of literature and art, and they would no 
longer grow such varieties as Jucunda % Napoleon III, etc., 
which are perhaps valuable in localities for the commer- 
cial grower, and for sale, to those who have no concep- 
tion of value, except it be represented outwardly to view. 

With these prefatory remarks, I proceed to describe 
two or three varieties of the class of Hautbois strawberries, 
with a hope, knowing the satisfaction it will give, that 
they may be more generally grown. 

Of the old varieties, none deserve higher credit or more 
universal cultivation than the Prolific Hautbois — a variety 
that although long known by those whose attention has 
been drawn to the subject, to the masses is yet a compar- 
atively new sort. The vines are very strong, vigorous 
growers, sending up their long fruit-stalks nearly level 
with and generally above the leaf foliage, and producing 
fruit in abundance, of full medium size, conical in shape, 
of very dark, almost blackish red, when ripe moderately 
firm-fleshed, juicy, sweet and of a peculiarly high, arom- 
atic, pineapple flavor, never to be once eaten but to be 
again desired. 

The Royal Hautbois is another and perhaps improved 
variety of the above. I have only known it a year or two, 
and never believe in commending until I have a good fair 
chance of being able to sustain my comments. So far as 
I have practical knowledge, however, this variety is desi- 
rable. The fruit is medium to large, roundish, obtuse, 
conical, with a whitish, rich, sweet flesh. • 

The foregoing, Hautbois, are unpopular because not 

4 



5° 



SMALL FRUITS. 



profitable; for, people on the markets, buy by the eye, 
not of the palate. Few in the world have a delicacy of 
taste. Brought up on fried fat meats, and sweetmeats, 
the flavor or the palate lias been as much destroyed as 
in that of the drinker of poor liquors. Let us hope. for 
improvement in the education of those who are to super- 
cede us in life. 

Of others outside of the Alpines and Hautbois, there are 
also a few varieties that should always be in the possession 
of those who grow strawberries. The Lennig, La Con- 
stant, Trioniphe de Gaud, are of delicacy and richness. 
A new seedling under the name of Mary White is much 
after the style of Lennig' s, only a little more flattened in 
form. Another called Sterling is after the Trioniphe de 
Gand, when well and fully ripened. In form it is more 
conical or obovate conic, in color a rich glossy vermillion, 
red flesh, a little acid. 

We take up some of the older sorts. Lady Finger, one 
of the old varieties, is in favor with many, while others 
think it too flavorless. French Seedling, too soft, and also 
wanting in flavor. Lda, small but prolific ; one of the 
earliest and latest to ripen, of a quality that, when ripe, 
everybody likes, and one that amateurs who have grown 
it declare they cannot dispense with. Michigan, too 
small and unproductive, but of good flavor. Green Pro- 
lific is an abundant bearer, but in quality no better than 
Wilson, and not near as firm for market purposes. Tri- 
oniphe de Gand holds its own as a fine, large and valuable 
sort, when well cultivated in rich, strong soil. 

La Constante, Fnima and Hooker are all fine flavored 



SMALL FRUITS. 5 1 

sorts, but the plants require too much care to keep them 
going. Napoleon III has only found favorable record in 
two or three places. Dr. Nicaise has not been heard of 
since its first season. Agriculturist has, good reports from 
many ; and were it not so soft would probably be more 
grown. Peak's Emperor is said to be so much like Agri- 
culturist that even good judges cannot distinguish them 
apart. It is however claimed for Peak's Emperor that it 
will succeed on soil in which the Agriculturist fails. Or- 
nament des Tables, as heretofore, proves of the highest fla- 
vor, but unproductive. Hovey yet holds its own as the 
finest of all varieties for shipping, but it is not sufficiently 
productive to meet the wants of the present age. 

Princess Royal and King Arthur are two of the foreign 
sorts that have favorable accounts of giving promise of 
value . Tillip 's Rival Queen is also another of good record . 
Lucas has fine flavor, but too unproductive. Belle de Bor- 
delaise is said to be the best of all the Han 'tbois class. 

The Culture of Strawberries , one of what we term small 
fruits, has in it with others, items of practice, depth of 
soil, character thereof and location. Our American va- 
rieties, taking the Wilson, with its strong roots to a young 
plant, and Nicanor, almost equalling in this particular, 
while being quite as fruitful and of better quality, with 
Ida, Green's Prolific, Kentucky, and some others, may be 
planted in rows three feet distant, each plant set in the 
row one foot from each other, and when acres are grown 
the cultivator, propelled by the horse or mule, will do 
most of the cultivation. In the small garden, what is 
known as the Dutch scuffle hoe, followed by raking the 



5 2 



SMALL FRUITS. 



surface directly afterward with a common iron hand rake, 
is perhaps the cheapest and easiest mode that can be used 
by the grower. At the north, or above 40 deg. of latitude, 
all these require shielding in winter, which may be done 
by the use of straw or bog hay scattered lightly over them 
and held from being blown away by winds, by the use of 
poles or rails, two to four inches in diameter. 

All the foreign varieties like the Triomphe de Garni, 
Lennig's White, Trollope's Victoria, Monarch of the West, 
La Constante, etc., should be cultivated in hills having 
one good plant, at distances say eighteen inches apart 
each way, the runners Cut away as fast as they appear, 
and the whole strength of the plant thrown into the fruit. 
If new plants are wanted for the coming year the fruit 
blossoms should be picked from a few hills and the run- 
ners left to take root. In the States or sections below 40 
deg. of latitude, the strawberry is grown with little care or 
culture. They need no winter protection, and the crop 
ripens ere the hot suns injure the vine. 



RASPBERRIES. 

New varieties are easily grown from seed, but they have 
a tendency to change from the parent. A fully ripe berry 
should be taken and planted about one inch deep in light 
loamy soil, and shaded, until it has made a growth of two 
leaves. A cheap box frame, with slats over the top, an- 
swers well, and when the plants are grown six inches high 
they should be transplanted, shaded, and protected the 
first winter. Suckers, or offsets, can be transplanted 



SMALL FRUITS. 



53 



either in autumn or spring, taking the growth of the season 
with root, and cutting the stem to four inches of the crown 
of the root. Plants, the growth of the early season, may- 
be taken up and transplanted by removing most of the 
foliage, as with the strawberry. The soil best suited to 
grow the finer varieties, is a rich deep loam, where there 
is moisture, but such drainage that water will not stand. 

Soils and locations unfavorable can be made good by 
deep culture, and by placing at the bottom of a deep 
trench along the row line, coarse barn-yard manure or 
leaf litter. Then, after transplanting, mulch the surface 
with any refuse straw or hay. Generally an open airy 
location is advised, but where shade can be given without 
exhausting the soil, by trees, it is desirable, and especially 
with the southern portions of our States and the valley 
regions. The systems of growing vary, and perhaps are 
equally profitable. Most planters grow the plants three 
feet apart each way, with two to four canes to a hill, ac- 
cording to the soil. Some keep them upright by stakes 
and wires, others by simply bending the bearing cane in 
spring, to form arches along, leaving the present years to 
grow upright, then cutting away yearly, or soon after the 
crop is gathered, the last bearing canes. 

Hardiness of varieties is a feature that greatly depends 
on location. In Philadelphia, parts of New Jersey, the 
south shore of Lake Erie, and the eastern shore of Lake 
Michigan, most of the foreign varieties and their Ameri- 
can seedling offspring, generally prove fruitful without the 
laying or bending down and covering. So also there are 



54 SMALL FRUITS. 

localities adjoining our inland lake bodies of water, where 
with careful looking to no standing water in the soil, and 
by carefully pinching back the canes for next year's bear- 
ing, from time to time, varieties prove almost hardy. It 
is impossible to write definite instructions for the general 
readers, and the territory of the United States. 

Of the hardiest varieties of this class, i.e. the foreign 
and their American seedlings, we will start with those we 
count the best, and in the order of ripening. The Kirt- 
land is hardy, in size almost, if not quite equal to the 
Clarke ; is the earliest of all to ripen ; of fine quality for 
the table, but too soft for distant market transportation. 
It should be in the garden of every fruit grower. 

The Clarke is not as hardy as Kirtland, nor will it bear 
as well transportation. Next it is a question between Na- 
omi and Knevefs Giant, and when the product, size and 
quality of fruit is counted. 

Naomi — of which (see illustration) herewith a drawing, 
is one that has made some noise, and whether nine hun- 
dred and ninety-nine out of every ten hundred that have 
been sold under this name prove Franconia is doubtful. 
It is a distinct sort, and side by side with Franconia, of 
which it is doubtless a seedling, it has stood the winter 
uninjured, when its parent has killed to the ground. In 
its general appearance it is not unlike the Franconia ; but 
in its quality it is sweeter and richer. 

Knevefs Giant, a variety of which no record seems to be 
found in any but American works, is of acknowledged 
foreign origin, and has, in years gone by, proved fine. 



SMALL FRUITS. 



55 




NAOMI. 



56 SMALL FRUITS. 

Belle dn' Paluan is another foreigner of good show. 
All speak its praise, but from what we have known of it the 
canes are not hardy, and therefore the public as a public, 
the growers all over the country, will not have it. 

The Hudson River Red Antwerp^ is so often written of 
by journals, and as nearly every town has heard of it, it 
is needless to write, more than to say, that on dee}) rich 
soil, laid loose and lightly covered in winter, it is product- 
ive, and one of the best in every respect. Franconia is 
an old variety, large fruit, deep purplish red and pro- 
ductive. 

Herstine is one of recent production, an abundant 
bearer of large fruit. 

The Highland Hardy, Bratidywine and Turner's Seed- 
ling are among a large lot of new named varieties. Their 
value must be learned by years of cultivation in varied 
locations. Of the late or autumnal varieties of foreign 
origin, the Belle de Fontenay is one of the best, but has a 
strong tendency to sucker, and the grower must destroy a 
large portion of them in its cultivation. 

.A word in favor of Belle de Fontenay, a variety that 
because of its disposition to sucker freely has been 
almost discarded. By or from pure contrariness, a 
man in the writer's employ, three years since, in 
hoeing, cut away in spring all the suckers ; and so all 
summer, when hoeing, he would let but one or two grow, 
cutting away all others as weeds. The result was a good 
crop of fruit not only on the canes of the previous year, 
but on those of the same season 's growth ; and repeating 



SMALL FRUITS. 



57 



the process, with like results, up to the present, we now 
have fruit on the young canes just as that on the canes of 
last year's growth. As a variety for private gardens, it is 
worthy of more general planting than it has received, but 
all should remember to cut away the suckers freely, as so 
many weeds. The drawing is one of thirteen clusters on 
a stem or cane of the year's growth. 




Belle de Fonteny. 

The Large Fruited Monthly and Merville de Four Seas- 
ons, are of those that have had the longest test, and 
counted among the best. 

Of the Native Varieties, classed generally with Purple 
Cane, Mrs. Wood, and then as Black Caps, varieties that 
so long as the public remain without education of the del- 
icacy and richness that belongs to fruit, we suppose will 



58 SMALL FRUITS. 

be grown, as they can be grown profitably, with the least 
knowledge of how to gather, pack or ship. 

The Doolittle and Davison's Thornless are about the 
same in time of ripening, are medium-sized fruit and 
good bearers. The Doolittle is most profitable. Ellisdale, 
Minnesota, Alia ma, OJiio Ever-Bearing, Zu/u's Ever- 
Bearing, Golden Thorn less, Black Cap, Surprise, and 
several others, are no better than hundreds of the old 
wild American Black and White-Caps, to be found in 
fence corners all over the country ; and a man owning 
ground on which the natives grow, who should cut them 
away for the purpose of planting either of the above, 
ought to be sent to a lunatic asylum or made to attend 
Horticultural Conventions one year. It is questionable if 
he got away from either with any improvement of mind 
or judgment. 

Philadelphia is too well known to speak of, for in quality 
it is unworthy, and only for markets near by will it an- 
swer, on account of the softness of the berry, but for a 
market near by, and to supply at low rates it is profitable. 
Mrs. Wood is equally productive with Philadelphia , and 
for family use is a far superior berry. It is of a purplish 
red and matures its crop late. It is a larger berry than 
any other belonging to the hybrid class of a cross between 
the common American Black and the foreign varieties. 

The Miami, McCormick or Mammoth Cluster , all one 
and the same, should be, with Mrs. Wood, the only two 
of our natives to cultivate. 

Many more varieties of these classes might be noted, 



S.MALI. FRUITS. 59 

but we count it wise to advise the culture of only a few of 
the best, for the market, the farm and the garden. 



BLACKBERRIES. 

The culture of Blackberries is similar to that of the 
Raspberry, except they are of stronger and longer growth 
of the stem, and therefore should be planted at least six 
to eight feet apart. Rich soil is a requisite of success, 
and often after planting a mulch of four to six inches deep 
is better than hand or plow culture. 

This fruit is indigenous to this country, is easily grown 
from seed, and our best known varieties, under name, have 
come to us from observation and the gathering of wildings. 
As long ago as 1845 the writer saw fruit, grown from 
plants obtained from the woods, that measured over five 
inches in circumference. Trimming and training with the 
Blackberry differs little if any from that of the Raspberry. 

The terms of Blackberry, Dewberry or high and low 
Blackberry, all come from the same bramble, and the 
Wilson comes the nearest of any in cultivation to the 
wild Dewberry. Of the varieties, Kittatinny stands first, 
as a general fruit for home use or market. Dorchester is 
a sweeter berry, the sweetest of all, but it is not very 
productive. New Rochelle or Lawton^ is a large berry, 
but it is almost impossible to gather a quart of sweet fruit 
from the canes. ■ Wilson's Early, a low growing sort, is a 
variety that should be grown, as its canes can easily be 
protected in winter. Its fruit is large and of good quality. 
Doctor Wanicr, Newman 's Thornless and Duncan's Falls 



6o 



SMALL FRUITS. 



are among the best new sorts named of the black colored 
fruit. The Duncan's Falle is after the habit of growth of 
New Rochelle, but it ripens earlier, is productive, with 
berries large and sweet when gathered. Missouri Mam- 
moth and Sable Queen coming from two extremes of our 
States, viz : the first from Missouri, the second from Mas- 
sachusetts, have each claims, but they must take time to 
show which quarter of the nation is best. 

Colonel Wilder and Crystal White, two varieties sent out 
from Albion, Illinois, have fruit, the former medium size, 
oblong form, light cream color ; the latter has fruit large, 
oval roundish, white, sweet and high flavor. Neither of 
these are valuable for market. 

The Alger, originated at Cleveland, Ohio, is of good 
size, oblong in form, of a deep claret color, sweet and 
rich . * 

We group some berries of varieties. 




WILSON S EARLY 



SMALL FRUITS. 



6l 





KITTATINN . 




ALGER. 




NEW ROCHELLE 



OPENING OF FRUIT BLOSSOMS. 



When watching the opening of leaf and blossom of 
varieties of cherry, pear and peach, during their period 
of returning life and promise ; for in this their period of 
spring bloom we think there is not a little yet to sway us 
in our judgment of their value as adapted to localities. 

Rostiezer pears were in full bloom before Tyson had 
burst the leaf shell ; Dutchess was in full bloom before 
Beurre d'Anjou had more - than just opened. Hale's 
Early peach was the first to open, except one or two seed- 
lings, which are of no value in fruit; Crawford's Early 
came next, then Sturtevant and Red Cheek Melocoton, 
and then Old Mixon Free. 

Among cherries, one of the very latest ripening sorts 
was the first to open its blossoms, while Early Purple 
Guigne came with Black Tartarian, and then followed 
Red Jacket, which is one of the late ripening sorts. Belle 
Magnifique opened before Arch Duke or Late Duke, and 
full a week before Reine Hortense or the common Morello. 
Early Richmond and Kirtland opened just after Late 
Duke, and Louis Phillip came in two days thereafter. 

These notes are made from numerous varieties noted, 
and if others count the point anything, we hope they will 
communicate or publish their observations. 



PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, ETC. 63 

Without presuming that the blooming period of straw- 
berries has aught to do with the period at which they ripen 
their fruit, as it is well known some mature quickly after 
blooming, while others occupy a greater length of time, 
yet as we went among our strawberry beds, we could but 
note that of Wilson, Downer and Nicanor quite a show of 
flowers appeared. Large Early Scarlet, Green Prolific, 
La Constante, Triomphe de Gand, Jucunda, and Lady 
Finger had each a few, while Ida, Hovey, Lucas, Napo- 
leon III, Agriculturist, Kramer, Bishop, French's Seedling, 
King Arthur, and many more, had scarce a bloom open. 



PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, 

AND WHAT TO DO, ETC. 



Years ago we wrote as follows, but deem it to-day ap- 
plicable, and so quote one of our old articles : — The pro- 
fusion of bloom on my dwarf pears admonishes me of 
what must be required of the roots to enable them to set 
and hold their fruit. I know they will set ; but soon after 
that, unless the roots are all vigorous and supply food 
in abundance, more or less, and perhaps all, will drop; 
so now is my time to go among them and clip away. 
1 know it seems bad at first view, but all horticultur- 
ists must remember that it takes time to mature fruit or 
flower ; such creations are not like mechanics, the work 
of hands, and controlled by man at will, but must be con- 
trolled by the laws of nature while guided by the hand of 
man. So let us cut away as soon as the flower opens, if 



64 PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, ETC. 

we can, but any way as soon as the fruit sets, and so de- 
liver the tree of its over-burden, and save to ourselves a 
fair crop of fine fruit. 

Now is my time too, I think, to sow my plaster, and I 
shall take my early morning time, when the dew is heavy, 
and sow from half a pint to a pint over each tree, for as 
it falls on the foliage and flower it will hold and assimilate 
the ammonia, making apparent its good effects for several 
weeks to come. 

Yesterday was half rainy, and, looking over my record, 
or map, of the trees, etc., on my place, it occurred to me 
that some had died and been replaced, with varieties of 
another sort. So I went over my ground in the interven- 
ing of showers, took down names, and then, in the house, 
recorded them in my book. T have found the best way of 
labeling trees or vines for permanent orchard or vineyard, 
is to make a little map of the grounds > and then designate 
row, number, and position in row, of each kind, in a book. 
The loss of labels attached to each tree or vine is then of 
little account, as a reference to the book enables me to 
correct or supply the name without error. It also enables 
me to say of a surety from whom I received the plant, 
because at the end of each name of the variety, I add the 
initials or name of the person, or persons, from whom re- 
ceived ; and so, if the variety prove incorrect, I know 
whom to blame. 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



In the preparation of this work no attempt at strictly 
pomological description of any variety is offered. The 
object being to make plain ; after instructions how to 
plant, bud, graft, etc.; the varieties that it is most politic 
to obtain and cultivate. 

A selection has been carefully made, for sections ac- 
cording to latitude of climate, and a table made giving the 
true name of the variety, and its size, form, color, quality, 
use and season, following the terms of the American Po- 
mological Society. The period of ripening cannot be 
given in a simple table, because of the varied climate in 
which the fruit may be grown. A few varieties are suited 
to all our climates, but the period of maturing varies. 

It is unnecessary to give a list of the 2700 varieties of 
apples, or more, as well as that of pears, whose numbers 
are nearly the same, as it would be for a fruit grower to 
grow them all and expect profit. The cherries, plums, 
peaches, grapes, etc., number about one-third each of ap- 
ples and pears, and yearly of all fruits new varieties are 
introduced. 

The writer has had forty years of knowledge in the 
study of fruits and their culture, over a large territory, 
and the making of the selection of a # few, which in truth 



66 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

is best for the grower, has given him many hours of 
thought. It is not presumed that the lists given will meet 
every man's ideas, but it is assumed that the varieties 
named are among the best and the longest tested as to 
hardihood and productive value, and therefore best for 
him who wants to plant for profit or his own use. The 
amateur can expend money and time perhaps to good ad- 
vantage for his own 'knowledge, and that of others, if he 
has the courtesy to publish what he has learned. The 
leading nurserymen are alive to the subject matter, and 
ready to supply buds, grafts or small trees of sorts new, 
and sent out as exceedingly valuable. 



THE APPLE. 

We count the Apple as the King of fruits, because it is 
more generally known and used than any other. Apples 
are considered more nutricious than potatoes, indeed, 
many go so far as to think that they contain more brain 
food than any other fruit or vegetable. However that 
may be, they certainly exert a healthful influence upon the 
whole system when eaten raw or cooked in the most sim- 
ple manner. When compounded with butter, eggs and 
flour, they are far less wholesome than when baked or 
steamed. Apples nicely baked and served with cream 
are a delicious dish, and an ingenious housekeeper can 
easily devise numerous ways of preparing them for the 
table. Many methods have been suggested for keeping 
apples in a good condition through the winter. One is to 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 67 

wrap each apple — as oranges and lemons are wrapped for 
importation — in paper ; old newspapers will answer. Pa- 
per is not only impervious to air, but serves to keep the 
fruit at a uniform temperature. Another method of pre- 
serving apples is to put some dry, fine sand into each bar- 
rel and shake it down very gently ; powdered plaster is 
sometimes used instead of sand. Another way is to pit 
the apples in a dry sandy soil. A hole three or four feet 
deep should be dug, the fruit put in upon dry straw and 
covered with a layer of straw and dry earth. The earth 
should be raised above the general level of the ground, so 
as to shed rain. When thus protected, the apples are 
said to keep well until spring. 

With the rapidly increasing settlement of our North- 
western States and Territories, and the universal desire of 
an intelligent people to cultivate fruit, the subject of va- 
rieties adapted to the climate becomes yearly more and 
more important. Although it has been somewhat exten- 
sively discussed, the vital point, even at this time, is com- 
paratively but little understood. That the apple, in some 
of its varieties, can be grown wherever a crop of corn can 
be ripened, is beyond doubt ; yet the selection of varie- 
ties, to command success, has thus far been an item of 
costly experiment, and to-day is but imperfectly known. 
But one single variety, belonging to the class designated 
by botanists as Pyrus malus, named and described in the 
books as the Duchess of Oldenburgh, has fully stood the 
test uninjured in all locations. Many others prove com- 
paratively hardy ; and, as both variety as well as period 
of maturity are required, the planter has necessarily had 



68 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

to assume a risk in selection, which, in some cases, has 
been well rewarded, while in many others it has failed. 
The record of one dealer is, that " out of one hundred 
thousand apple trees, comprising varieties such as North- 
ern Spy, Fall Pippin, etc., sold by him and planted in 
Minnesota, not one hundred remained at the expiration 
of ten years." 

It may be this is an extreme case ; but certainly the 
failures have been more numerous than the successes, un- 
til many have said our Northwestern States were not 
adapted to the growth of any but the small fruits, such as 
currants, gooseberries, etc., etc. Enthusiasm, careful 
observation and perseverance, however, in this, as in all 
pursuits, is destined to secure success ; and to this end 
we find the fruit growers, both professional and amateur, 
of the Northwest have, during the past few years, devo- 
ted themselves so assiduously that the exhibition tables of 
Horticultural Societies have this past season been sup- 
plied with a new class of apples, which, while they have 
not the size of a large proportion of old named varieties 
of the Pyrus wains, possess richness of flesh and eatable 
quality almost, if not quite, equaling them ; and from 
their botanical character in tree — the Pyrus baccata — a 
hardihood that insures success to the planter. 

With the apple, therefore we commence our table list of 
the varieties we advise mainly to plant. As before said, 
there are numerous varieties which can be obtained, but 
many of them have only a local reputation of experience 
touching their value. 

The abbreviations in the following table of apples, are 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 69 

to be understood following the columns, say of Size: 1., 
for large; m., medium ; s., small. The Form, r. c.,for 
roundish conical; ob., oblong; r. ob., roundish oblate; 
r., roundish. The Color, y. r., for yellow and red; r. s., 
for red striped ; g. y., for greenish yellow ; rus., for rus- 
setted ; y. rus., for yellow and russet. The Quality, g., 
good ; v. g., very good ; b., best. Use, f ., fruit valuable 
for all family purposes; k. m., valuable for kitchen or 
market; f. m., family or market. Season, s., summer; 
e. a., early autumn ; 1. a., late autumn; w., winter ; Ori- 
gin, Rus., for Russian ; En. for English ; Am., for Ameri- 
can ; Ger., for German ; F., for Foreign. 

All these characters, of course, only designate leading, 
positive features, and vary in their distinctness according 
to soil and climate in which they are grown. 



7 o 



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A delicious winter apple. 
Successful on clay soils. 
One of best for the south- w't 
One of best of winter fruits. 
A popular market fruit. 
No equal as a cooking fruit 
Profitable and good. 
One of the best winter sorts 
Valued at the South. 
One of the best in its season 
Valued at the North. 
One of the earliest to ripen. 
Valuable in all climates. 
One of the best of the Crabs 
Successful and profitable. 
A variety of value. 
Esteemed where known. 
Popular where known. 
Esteemed in the mid. west. 
A late keeper. 




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VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 73 

VARIETIES SUITED TO LATITUDES. 

Having now given a table of a select list of varieties of 
the Apple, we will here designate those which we count 
most valuable for the range of climate. The periods of 
ripening are given in the foregoing table, as near as can 
be computed, over the whole territory of the United States. 

LIST FOR THE LATITUDE ABOVE 43. 

Varieties: Gravenstein, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Te- 
tofsky, Red Astrachan, Hawthornden, are varieties of for- 
eign origin, but trees hardy and productive. Bentley's 
Sweet, American Golden Russet, Porter, Fameuse, Jona- 
than, Winesap, Benoni, Ohio Nonpariel, Pome Gris, Red 
Canada, Lady Apple, Maiden's Blush, Bethlehemite, Kes- 
wick Codlin, Wealthy, Gilpin, Ribston Pippin, Mother, 
Lowell, Early Strawberry, Peck's Pleasant, St. Lawrence, 
Tewksbury, Winter Blush, are varieties of reputed hardi- 
hood, and productive. Lady Crab, Marengo, Hyslop, 
Coral, Chicago, Chase's Winter Sweet; Cherry, Hutchin- 
son's Winter Sweet, White Winter, .Transcendant, Pow- 
ers' Large, are of the Crab-apple class, and all regarded 
as of value, where others fail. The above line of latitude 
ranges all above the vicinity of Boston, Mass., striking 
above Buffalo, N. Y. and Lansing in Michigan, and so on 
to the Pacific Ocean, with varying ideas of that broad 
shore. 

We present herewith a few illustrations of what are 
called Crab-apples, believing them to be of value where 
trees of a more delicate nature cannot be grown. 



74 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 




MARENGO. 




TRANSCEND ANT 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 75 

LIST OF LATITUDES FROM 43 DOWN TO 40. 

This line includes Boston, Mass., and reaches down on 
the Atlantic to Burlington and Trenton, in New Jersey, 
to Philadelphia and Wheeling, in Pennsylvania and West 
Virginia, ranging fifty miles or more above Columbus in 
Ohio, about the same above Indianapolis, Indiana, strik- 
ing near Springfield, Illinois, and somewhat above St. Jo- 
seph, in Iowa, Lincoln or Nebraska City in Nebraska, 
and so on to Salt Lake City. 

Varieties: American Summer Pearmain, Benoni, Red 
Astrachan, Early Strawberry, Williams' Favorite, Summer 
Rose, Ohio Nonpariel, Maiden's Blush, Large Sweet 
Bough, Golden Sweeting, Keswick Codlin, Graven stein, 
Lowell, Porter, Jefferies, Fameuse, Duchess of Olden- 
burgh, Jersey Sweet, Bethlehemite, Baltimore, Broadwell, 
Bentley's Sweet, Evening Party, Winesap, Baldwin, Cogs- 
well, W T agner, Westfield Seeknofarther, Hubbardston, 
Nonesuch, Fall Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Swaar, 
Mother, Lady's Sweet, Lady Apple, Jonathan, Red Can- 
ada, Smith's Cider, Northern Spy, Wealthy. 

LIST FOR LATITUDES FROM 40 DOWN TO 37. 

This takes in Maryland, most of West Virginia and Vir- 
ginia, North Carolina, Southern Ohio, Southern Illinois, 
Southern Indiana, somewhat of Iowa, most of Missouri, 
some of Kansas and Kentucky. 

We feel compelled to select list for the latitude of 40 to 
37, to twenty varieties, as follows : 

Carolina Red June, American Summer Pearmain, Red 
Astrachan, Summer Rose, Maiden's Blush, Smith's 



76 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

Cider, Ben Davis, Buckingham, Winesap, American 
Golden Russet, McAfee's Nonesuch, Pryor's Red, 
Shockley, Rawles' Ganet, Hewes' Virginia Crab, Willow 
Twig, Yellow Newtown Pippin, Nickajack, Gilpin, 
Green Cheese. 

THE LATITUDE BELOW 37. 

It is reckless and useless to make any list of apples to 
be grown in this region of our United States territory. 
Evidently, from what we read, the growers themselves 
know not of what they grow or its value. 

Editors and critics who doubt this statement, may turn 
and take from the best records of the American Pomologi- 
cal Society's Transactions, and learn what the fruit grow- 
ers of the grand South know relative to the value of ap- 
ples in their region. It has been the unfortunate lot of 
the writer, ever to have met one from the extreme South 
who could give favorable record of any one variety of the 
apple. 



PEARS. 

The Pear is said to be the Prince of fruits, because of 
its delicacy, juiciness and rich melting flesh. In this 
work, written for the plain public, we have classed the 
apple as King. 

Our selection of varieties, will by many be ignored, 
yet we feel that when we name a variety to be grown, we 
do so knowingly of its past-time value, and hence the 
probability of its future. Willing to give credit to those 
who have aided in the introduction and culture of this 
valuable fruit, we must say that there is in it a feature of 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 77 

decay called "blight," that appears all unknown. The 
most intelligent of horticulturist apparently have no ex- 
plicit idea of what the blight is, or how it may be checked. 

Various remedies for the blight have been recommended, 
but no one proves a specific. A healthy growth of the 
tree, in a soil moist yet dry, i. e., void of stagnant water 
at the base of the roots, is about the only preventive. 

As, with the apple, the selection of varieties has been 
made to meet the wants of the public rather than minis- 
tering to the fancy of amateurs. So, also, has our list 
been classed as to latitude, fully .designated as to bound- 
aries under head of the apple. 

In the list of size, color, form, etc., we here also copy 
from the American Pomological Society's Catalogue, as 
follows : 

The columns explain. Size — s. small ; 1. large; m. me- 
dium, Flower — p. pyriform ; r. o. p. roundish, obtuse 
pyriform ; r. a. p. roundish, acute pyriform ; ob. p. obtuse 
pyriform; r. roundish ; r. ob. roundish obtuse. Color — 
y. g. yellow or yellowish green, with a red or russet-red 
cheek ; y. r. yellow and russet ; y. when mostly yellow or 
yellowish. Quality — g. good ; v. g. very good; b. best. 
Use — f. valuable family desert ; k. m. kitchen and mar- 
ket ; f. m. family and market. Season — s. summer ; 1. s. 
late summer ; a. autumn ; e. a. early autumn ; 1. a. late 
autumn; w. winter. Origin — En. English; Am. Amer- 
ican ; F. French ; Fl. Flemish ; B. Belgium ; H. Holland. 

With apples, our list ranges ten to forty ; with pears we 
reduce and make it ten to thirty. Our list of the best is 
as follows : 



78 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



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VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



LIST OF TEN TO THIRTY VARIETIES, 

Valuable north of 43 degrees of latitude for our range. 
For the period of ripening, etc., see table : 

Abbot, Ananas d'Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre 
Bosc, Beurre d'Anjou, Beurre Diel, Beurre Giffard, Beurre 
Superfin, Bloodgood, Brandywine, BurTum, Clapp's Favor- 
ite, Fulton, Dearborn's Seedling, Flemish Beauty, Doctor 
Reeder, Howell, Kirtland, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de 
Jersey, Onondaga, Tyson, Seckel, Winter Nelis, Mc- 
Laughlin, Beurre Coit, Souvenier de Congress, Goodale, 
Doyenne Boussock. 




DOCTOR REEDER PEAR. 

This exceedingly valuable new pear originated with Dr. 
Henry Reeder, Varick, Seneca county, N. Y., from 
seed of a Winter Nelis pear, the tree of which grew near 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 8t 

*a Seckel. The fruit in form resembles the Seckel, while, 
with the rich, honied sweetness of that variety, it has also 
the juicy, sprightly vivacity of the Winter Nelis. The 
original tree is about twelve years old, and as yet has been 
but little disseminated. We are indebted to Messrs. Ell- 
w anger & Barry of Rochester, N. Y., for specimens 
from which we have made the accompanying drawing and 
description. The variety is generally known under the 
name of Dr. Reeder's Seedling, by whieh it was noticed 
first in American Pomological Society's Transactions by 
Charles Downing. 4 

Fruit small in size, globular, obtuse pyriform, pale yel- 
low, mostly overspread with a smooth, warm, cinnamon 
russet, — stem slender, nearly three-fourths of an inch long, 
set in a broad, open, moderately deep cavity, having oc- 
casionally a slight lip on one side; calyx open, large for 
size of fruit, with erect, divided, rounded' segments ; basin 
shallow, broad, smooth and open ; flesh yellowish white, 
fine grained, juicy, melting, almost buttery, sprightly, 
sweet, and slightly aromatic ; best in quality ; core medi- 
um ; seeds blackish ; season early November. 

The list for latitude 43 down to 40, we advise the fol- 
lowing: 

Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Clair- 
geau, Beurre d'Anjou, Doyenne de Cornice, Beurre Gif- 
fard, Beurre Superfine, Brandy wine, Marechal de la Cour, 
Clapp's Favorite, Doyenne Boussock, Doyenne d'Ete, 
Duchess d'Angouleme, Flemish Beauty, Clout Morceau, 
Howell, Josephine de Malines, Kirtland, Louise bon de 
Jersey, Lawrence, Onondaga, Rostiezer, White Dovenne 

6. 



82 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

Seckel, Sheldon, Tyson, Stevens' Genesee, Vicar of Wake- 
field, Winter Nelis. 

From latitude 40 down to 37, we offer the following as 
the best list: 

Ananas d'Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, 
Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d'Anjou, Beurre Giffard, Beurre 
Langlier, Beurre Superfine, Clapp's Favorite, Dana's 
Hovey, Dearborn's Seedling, Doyenne de Cornice, Mare- 
chal de la Cour, Emile de Heyst, Beurre Easter, Glout 
Morceau, Duchess d'Angouleme, Doctor Reeder, Jose- 
phine de Malines, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de Jersey, 
Mount Vernon, Onondaga, Rostiezer, Princes St. Ger- 
main, Tyson, and Winter Nelis. 

From latitude 37 and below the following have repute: 

Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d' 
Anjou, Beurre Superfine, Bloodgood, Buffum, Brandy- 
wine, Doyenne d'Ete, Beurre Easter, Duchess d'Angou- 
leme, Howell, Lawrence, Onondaga, Kirtland, Seckel, 
Doctor Reeder, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Giffard, Flemish 
Beauty, Rostiezer, St. Michael Archangel, Tyson, Winter 
Nelis, Madelaine, Dearborn's Seedling, Jaminette, Jose- 
phine de Molines, St. Ghislain. 



THE CHERRY. 

This fruit has its special localities, perhaps more than 
any other ; and while at the extreme north some varieties 
succeed, most of the sweet varieties fail. From latitude 
43 down to 40 we may count as the region for the profit- 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 83 

able growing of good, rich, sweet cherries. Below the 
latitude of 40, say to 37, some varieties succeed, and it is 
well to keep planting. The same varieties named in our 
remarks hereafter as best, for from 40 to 37, are equally- 
good for the lower and warmer latitudes. Although the 
Cherry numbers less of varieties than the Apple or Pear, 
the selection of those suited to various sections is one re- 
quiring careful thought and knowledge. We have made 
our list to run from 10 to 20 varieties for latitude. Our 
table of terms, as to size, form, etc., is made from the 
American Pomological Society's Catalogue, for we have 
full confidence in that Association, made up of the best 
pomological intelligence of the world. 

Size — 1, large; m, medium; s, small. Form — ob h, 
obtuse, heart shape; r, ob, h, roundish, obtuse, heart 
shape; r, h, roundish, heart shape, roundish or round. 
Color — 1, r, lively bright red; d, r, dark red, almost 
black ; a, m, amber mottled with red ; y, r, yellow ground 
shaded and mottled with red. Class — H, Hearts, or ten- 
der fleshed sweet cherries; B, Bigarreau, or firm fleshed; 
D, Dukes, having a character in tree and fruit midway 
between the Hearts and Morellos ; M, Morello, having 
acid fruit, and the tree of small growth. Use — f, family, 
for dessert ; fm, family or market ; k m, cooking or mar- 
ket ; m, market. Season — e, early ; m, medium, 1, late. 
Origin — f , foreign ; a, American . 



8 4 



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86 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

LIST OF VARIETIES FOR LATITUDES. 

The range of latitude our readers will please refer to the 
apple. 

SELECTIONS FOR LATITUDES ABOVE 43. 

Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle Magnifique, Carna- 
tion, Dauphine, Donna Maria, Early May, Flemish, Im- 
peratrice Eugenie, Imperial Morello, Jeffreys 'Duke, Kent- 
ish or Early Richmond, Kirtland's Morello, Louis Phil- 
ippe, May Duke, Morello English, Plumstone Morello, 
Reine Hortense, Royal Duke, Vail's August Duke. 

SELECTIONS FROM 43 DOWN TO 40 . 

Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle of Orleans, Black 
Tartarian, Black Hawk, Coe's Transparent, Caroline, Da- 
cota, Early Prolific, Early Purple Guigne, Elton, Governor 
Wood, Kennicott, Kentish or Early Richmond, Louis Phil- 
ippe, Ohio Beauty, Pontiac, Powhatan, Rockport, Red 
Jacket. 

SELECTION OF LATITUDE 40 DOWN TO 37. 

Arch Duke, Belle Magnifique, Belle de Choisy, Carna- 
tion, Donna Maria, Kentish or Early Richmond (all one 
and the same), Downer's Late, Dacota, Flemish, Gridley, 
Late Duke, Louis Philippe, May Duke, Morello English, 
Nouvelle Royale, Powhatan, Reine Hortense, Red Jacket, 
Sparhawk's Honey. 

The above list is as valuable for all latitudes below 37 
degrees as can be made under the present record of in- 
telligence. 

We give here illustrations of Ohio Beauty, Fig. 1, and 
Donna Maria, Fig. 2. 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS, 



87 




Fig. i. 




Fig 



88 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



APRICOTS AND NECTARINES. 

Of these only a few can be grown by the multitude of 
the people. Too much care in the pruning is requisite, 
and also it is requisite that an exposure of heat and sun 
light be given the tree. 

The Apricot is beautiful in its growth, and especially 
when it is in bloom. It should be worked upon the Plum, 
and the growth yearly kept shortened by pinching off the 
ends of strong shoots and rubbing away the feeble buds. 
We make no table for these two varieties of fruits, viz., 
Apricots and Nectarines, for the reason that above 42 of 
latitude it is unwise to attempt to grow them. 

We name but few, but those we do name are of the 
hardiest in tree and best in quality. 

Breda — is small, said to originate in x\frica. The tree 
is one of the hardiest. The. fruit, roundish in form, a 
dark orange in color, with flesh orange colored, rich and 
high flavored. 

Hemskirke — is one of the largest and best. Orange 
color, with a red cheek ; flesh bright orange color; juicy, 
rich and lucious flavor. 

Large Early — This comes to us from France. The 
tree is vigorous and it is early in ripening. Fruit of me- 
dium size, pale orange, with blotches of red in the sun; 
flesh, orange colored, separating readily from the stone, 
rich and juicy. 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 89 

Moorpark — Has a great reputation. It is large when 
grown with care, but not productive. Orange color. 

Roman — One of the hardiest of trees. Fruit of middle 
size, pale yellow ; flesh soft, but rather dry. 



, THE NECTARINE. 

With this we shall deal less in number than with the 
apricot. Unfortunately the curculio is the destroyer of 
these as well as of the plum, and few care to fight against 
it. To grow it successfully even more attention and care 
is requisite than with the Apricot or Plum. 

Early Newington — is a clingstone. Fruit large, round- 
ish ovate; color, a green ground nearly covered with • red 
of mottled and marbled shades. The flesh is of a greenish 
white, deep red at the stone ; juicy, sugary, and excellent. 

Elruge — Esteemed as one of the best. It is of English 
origin, and when correctly trained by pinching of the shoots 
it is one of the most productive. Unless this is done no 
grower need to expect to furnish good nectarines. 

Violette Hative — This variety, with fifteen or more syn- 
onyms, has been everywhere grown, and to-day has the 
highest rank in its class. It is of delicious flavor, hardy 
and productive. It is of French origin, and has fruit 
rather large, narrowed at the top. Color, pale yellowish 
green, with marbled red in open sun. Flesh, whitish, but 
much rayed with red at the stone; melting, juicy, rich, 
and high flavored. 



9 o 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



THE PEACH. 

The Peach is a native of Persia and China. It was 
brought into this country somewhere about 1680. Its 
success here has been to make it the Queen of fruits. 

A selection of varieties to the various latitudes is a dif- 
ficult matter, yet we shall try to do it. 

Above 43 it cannot be grown in the open air. 

The list of new varieties is yearly on the increase, and 
some prove of value. The greater number, however, fail 
to meet expectations. 

The following remarks of J . J. Thomas, one of our most 
intelligent horticulturists, in a report to the American Pom- 
ological Society, deserve thought and attention of every 
fruit grower : 

' ' During the early period of fruit culture in this country, 
a long list of varieties was regarded as a special merit in 
any collection, and the nurseryman who could present the 
largest catalogue stood at the head of his profession. This 
led to the cultivation of many sorts of little value, and it 
became an object of importance to separate the valuable 
from the worthless. * * * A great change has taken 
place of later years, and collections of fruits for profit, as 
well as for home use, have been reduced to a few select 
sorts, the amateur and student of pomology only desiring 
a wider range. * * * The lists which are now wanted 
are of such sorts as the cultivators may plant for use." 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 91 

The variation of our climate and soils, makes this selec- 
tion of a few out of the hundreds one of the difficult 
tasks. In this little work we have attempted it, but with- 
out doubt we have omitted many varieties that are of 
value in their special localities ; but while we have tried 
to confine our range to climate rather than to soil, we have 
also in our chapter on soils and locations endeavored to 
briefly state the subject. The rules of time and hoiv to 
prune have also changed, and while our chapter on pruning 
may not meet the views of many growers, yet we have 
written what practise and observation have taught us. 
Authors disagree, and synonyms of varieties abound. 

We shall make our table descriptive of form, size, etc., 
as before, in one, and then name the varieties suited, as 
we judge best, for the range of country our latitude lines 
state. The columns explain as follows : 

Size — 1, large ; m, medium ; s, small. Class — f, free- 
stone ; c, clingstone. Color, relative to the flesh — w, white 
or pale colored ; y, yellow or yellowish ; g, greenish white, 
red at stone. Quality — j v, juicy, vinous; m j r, melt- 
ing, juicy, rich; s j, sweet, juicy Glands — s, serrated, 
without glands ; g, glands globose ; r, glands reniform. 
Season — In forming this table we have endeavored to 
follow the American Pomological Society's catalogue, but 
find that there the terms of period of ripening take 43 de- 
grees of latitude, so in our list of varieties for each latitude 
we shall designate them as very early, early, medium , late, 
and very late. 

The column of origin, Am. is a designation of American, 
f, of foreign. 



9 2 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



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94 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

VARIETIES OF THE PEACH ADVISED FOR LATITUDE 

43 TO 4o. 

We name as very early, Early York and Haine's Early; 
for early, Alberge Yellow and Yellow Rareripe ; for me- 
dium, Oldmixon Free and Crawford's Early ; for late, Fos- 
ter and Late Admirable ; for very late, Hyslop's Cling and 
Ward's Late Free. If it be desirable in a large orchard 
to extend the list to twenty varieties, then Alexander, 
Early Beatrice ; for very early, Cole's Early Red ; for early 
to medium, Cooledge's Favorite, Grosse Mignonne, George 
the Fourth, Jacques' Rareripe, Morris White, Snow, and 
Magdala. 

PEACHES FOR LATITUDE 40 TO 37. 

Alexander,' Amsden's June,EarlyBeatrice, for very early ; 
Alberge Yellow, Bergen Yellow, Early York, for early ; 
Cooledge s Favorite, Crawford's Early, George the Fourth, 
Snow, Grosse Mignonne, Oldmixon Freestone, Scott's 
Nonpareil, Noblesse, for medium ; Lemon Cling, Surpasse, 
Melocoton, for late j Smock Free, Stump the World, Sus- 
quehanna for very late. 

PEACHES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37 

Nearly all of the above named varieties are valued at 
the South , and the range from 40 may be strictly and truly 
said to cover the whole list of varieties we have given. 
The only item in all is, the popularity of a variety as to 
its value for market. From 40 degrees of latitude down, 
the seedlings are yearly being brought to notice and com- 
mended. We shall only name a few, viz. : Alexander, 



VARIETIES Of FRUITS. 95 

Chick's Early, Connor's White, Darby, Governor, Im- 
proved Pyramidal, Amelia, Muscogea, Thurber, Tuskuna. 



PLUMS. 



The Plum is highly esteemed both as a dessert and 
cooking fruit. It is stated that the original parent of our 
cultivated varieties is a native of Asia. There are besides 
the cultivated varieties, known botanically as Prunus do- 
mestical many others, native of our own country. They 
are known under various botanical terms, Prunus Chicasa, 
Prunus Americana, Prunus Maratima, and in general 
terms called Chickasaw, to the latter of which belong the 
varieties called Wild Goose, Newman, Mountain Plum , In- 
dian Chief, one of the Chicasa family. The North and 
the South can depend for hardiness only upon what we 
call native varieties. Vermont can do little with our cul- 
tivated varieties, except in certain localities, and so with 
all the extreme north ; while the records from South Caro- 
lina, Georgia, Tennessee, etc. , give place only to our native 
wild varieties. Ohio and westward had originally many 
varieties of wild Plums, from round to oval, color from 
dark purple to red and yellow, time of maturity from Sep- 
tember to midwinter, if the later were not gathered. The 
trade in these native wild plums was at one time a large 
source of profit, but the clearing up of the country has 
destroyed them as it has blackberries. 

The plum to be of value should hang upon the tree 
until perfectly ripe, no matter what the variety. This, 



g6 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

with every other fruit, requires thinning to give it size and 
flavor. Certain varieties are made into what we call Prunes, 
such as the St. Catherine and Prune d'Agen. The Blue 
Plum, Damson, Frost Gage, German Prune, Cruger's Scar- 
let, also may be used for this purpose in our warm sections 
of climate. 

ACCLIMATION, INSECTS, ETC. 

Many discussions in regard to the hardihood and pro- 
ductiveness of trees have been written by capable men, 
South and North. This acclimation of trees to a 
climate has been the talk of some tree dealers South 
and West, they claiming great superiority for those of the 
same sorts when grown in Tennessee and Alabama over 
the growths of New York and Massachusetts ; but after 
traveling not a little, and carefully examining, we have 
failed to find anything to support the statements — in fact 
we have frequently found orchards of trees obtained from 
the North superior to those of trees grown from the bud 
at the South. We have, therefore, no faith in acclimation. 
We do not believe change of climate will change the natu- 
ral order of the tree or plant. If any one does, we should 
like him to give some tangible proof of his beliefs — some- 
thing beside imaginary theory. 

The insects, etc., connected with Plum culture has occu- 
pied many pages of matter of late years, but mainly results 
in the fact that to preserve the crop from the curculio or 
plum weevil {Rynihanus Nenuphar), a small dark brown 
beetle with spots of white, yellow, and black. The reme- 
dies given for destruction of this insect, or for prevention 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 97 

of its destructive agency, are many, but the two we now 
name are the most reliable. 

One is of a man whose orchard of plums was in a sandy, 
loamy soil. It was plowed lightly with a one-horse plow 
early in spring, the plow cutting a little more than two 
inches deep. During the summer, until about the first of 
August, it was cultivated with a horse cultivator about 
once in two or three weeks, or just often enough to keep 
the weeds down. As soon as the plum trees opened their 
blossoms, boys of about fourteen or sixteen years of age 
were employed at a cost of eight dollars a month and 
board. In the hands of each boy was placed a pole about 
ten feet long, on the end of which was fastened a broad - 
mouthed tin cup, holding about three half-pints; and 
these boys were kept from the first rays of light in the 
morning until sundown, going from tree to tree, dipping 
the sandy loam into their cups and then scattering it 
among and through the branches of the trees, thus so dis- 
turbing the curculio that he failed to inflict any material 
injury on the fruit. In fact the result was, the owner 
almost wished the boys were not quite so faithful in their 
work ; for, if he could have had one-fourth the plums 
thinned out, the crop would have been better, becaues 
the plums would have been larger. 

This work of curculio hunting or disturbing was con- 
tinued steadily from the time of the first setting of the 
fruit — which is even before the whole of the blossoms 
have fallen — until it was more than half grown. Some 
few trees which were outside of the regular orchard, in 
turf ground, or where the surface could not well be stirred, 

7 



^8 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

were supplied with a heap of ashes or sand from which to 
load the cups. 

The second prevention, and one now most generally, is 
that of giving the tree a sudden and severe jar by means 
of a mallet or pole, so protected with India rubber or 
gutta percha that it will not bruise the bark. When it can 
be done, without injury to the tree, a large lower limb is 
sawed off square about two inches from the body of the 
tree, and the blow given on it to create the sudden jar. 

The Black Knot on plum trees has in many places 
been a destructive enemy to the trees. We have known 
the following to be successful as a remedy : — Take a paint 
brush, dip it in spirits of turpentine, and thoroughly satu- 
rate the knot, being careful not to touch the tree except 
in the diseased part. It stops the knot, and the tree puts 
out healthy branches below it. Be careful to burn all 
branches removed in pruning. As the summer is the 
time the mischief is done, every fresh excrescence should 
be pared off, the turpentine applied, and it will harden in 
a week. 

Having said so much touching the value and troubles 
•of the plum and its culture, we will make out our regular 
table list, copied in form from the Am. Pom. Society, and 
following as with other fruits, give our views of the values 
in certain latitudes to a certain number of varieties. The 
•columns explain after names as follows : Size — 1, large ; 
m, medinm ; s, small. Color — p, purplish or very dark 
red ; r, reddish or copper color ; y, yellow ; g, y, green- 
ish yellow ; y, r, yellowish with shades and spots of red. 
For?n — r, roundish ; o, oval; r, o, roundish oval ; o, ob, 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 99 

oval obolate. Quality— g, good; v, g, very good; b, 
best. Use— f, family; m, market. 

In our table we must drop the naming of the season, 
inasmuch as the one who made up the Am. Pom. Soci- 
ety's transactions in 1873, undertook to control them as 
ripening at a high latitude, rather than take an average 
center of the United States. 

The Origin— Am,- American ; F, Foreign, we give in 
column, — and in our names of varieties of latitudes will 
try to keep in mind record of the period those counted as 
very early, early, medium, late and very late. 

We make what we think is a select list of varieties, and 
yet, we, in naming twenty varieties for one man's culture, 
may omit others that with care and attention would prove 
equally good. 



IOO 



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i^Oa5oQ020202EHPHeuO-OH!>t>>H 



102 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

VARIETIES FOR ABOVE LATITUDE 43. 

For very early — Cherry, Jaime Hative. For early or 
medium — Bleeker's Gage, Copper, Cruger's Scarlet, Ger- 
man Prune, Italian Prune, Lombard, Red Gage, Mc- 
Laughlin, Peter's Yellow Gage, Prince's Yellow Gage, 
Purple, Favorite, St. Catherine, Sharp's Emperor, St. 
Lawrence. For late — Chckasaw, Damson, Frost Gage, 
Wild Goose. 

VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 43 TO 40 . 

For very early — Cherry, Jaane Hative. For early and 
medium — Bleeker's Gage, Bradshaw, Duane's Purple, 
Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Lawrence's Favor- 
ite. Lombard, McLaughlin, Prince's Yellow Gage, Pur- 
ple Favorite, Red Gage, Smith's Orleans, St. Lawrence, 
Washington. ¥ ox late — Blue Imperatrice, Bavay's Green 
Gage, Coe's Golden Drop. 

VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 40 TO 37. 

For very early — Cherry, Jaune Hative. For early to 
medium — Bleeker's Gage, Bradshaw, Duane's Purple, Ger- 
man Prune, Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Law- 
rence's Favorite, Lombard, McLaughlin, Red Gage, 
Sharp's Emperor, Smith's Orleans, St. Catherine. For 
late — Bavay's Green Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, Frost 
Gage. 

VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37. 

Our list for this lower line of latitude, we make more 
from the reports of Southern fruit growers than from our 
own knowledge. One of the most capable pomologists of 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



IOJ 



the South writes touching the plum as follows : — " The 
finer classes of plums, such as Gages, etc., cannot be 
grown except in poultry yards, and then only, if the trees 
are carefully watched during the period when they set 
fruit, and until the latter has attained at least half size. 
Our improved varieties of the Chickasaw type are less lia- 
ble to the attack of the curculio, and from this type we 
reap full crops every year. Many new varieties have lately 
been introduced, and we are confident, that before long, 
we shall possess a race of plums that will comapare favor- 
ably in quality with the Gages, but with the additional 
merit of being better growers and less liable to the attack 
of the curculio. The season of maturity ranges now from 
the end of May until the beginning of September." 

With this knowledge from one of the best Southern 
pomologists, we shall only add a few varieties to their 
native seedlings. We will start our list with Cherry, 
Chickasaw, Damson, De Caradenc, Frost Gage, Indian 
Chief, Lombard, Mountain Plum, Miner, Newman Tem- 
ple, and Wild Goose. 



THE QUINCE. 

The Quince is indigenous to Germany and the south of 
Europe. It is a well known hardy fruit tree, and perhaps 
pecuniarily one of the most profitable of all fruits. Botan- 
ically it is called Cydonia vulgaris, this name said to have 
come from the city of Cydon in Crete. Its fruit of fine 
golden yellow when ripe, resembling that of the orange, 



104 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

together with its white and pale pink blossoms, when 
nearly all the blossoms of other fruit trees are gone, make 
it both a profitable and ornamental tree of what we may 
call as second class of growth, for the Quince rarely grows 
higher than fifteen feet, with a spread of branches fully 
equal to the height. 

As a fruit for eating raw or uncooked it is not esteemed, 
but cooked, stewed, or made into marmalade it has few 
equals. As a jelly it is often used as an appetizer to meats, 
especially those of delicate poultry. Its juices are said to 
have a beneficial effect upon asthmatic patients, while 
mingled with the apple, even when dried, it gives a 
piquancy to the sauce beyond that of any other fruit. 

It is quite productive when young, and meets a ready 
market at remunerative prices. It is so firm that it can 
be shipped long distances without injury; in fact, care- 
fully packed and confined in a barrel it improves in ap- 
pearance for many days. The Quince can be easily 
propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, or small pieces 
of roots. 

Cuttings prepared in autumn and heeled in during win- 
ter, then planted out in spring, generally make fine stocks 
or plants on which to engraft or bud varieties of the pear. 
The fact of the quince making the most of its roots near 
the surface, and those small, has a tendency to check the 
growth of the pear and so cause it to form fruit buds. 
Propagation by small pieces of the roots is one of easy 
and all time practice. Simply dig away around an old or 
well grown tree, and cut from the roots pieces two to four 
inches in length; set these at an angle of forty-five de- 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



io 5 



grees in any soil and cover two inches over the top, and 
growth will ensue. Here perhaps it may not be inappro- 
priate to place the accompanying cut, showing how not 
only the Quince proper, but the Blackberry, Raspberry, 
Japan or Flowering Quince, Sweet Scented Shrub, and 
other plants that naturally throw up suckers, may be 
propagated. 



The soil that best suits the Quince is that of a loamy 
deep character, and overflowed at times of freshets for a 
day or two. But the tree can be grown profitably upon 
the poorest soil, by applying on the surface a rich dress- 
ing of well rotted manure, and then mulching with old 
litter, leaves, etc. 

The pruning of the Quince is a mere nothing. While 
young, and even when old, sucker shoots will appear near 
the crown of the root; these should be removed, and 
occasionally one of the leading, rapid-growing branches 
on the tree will require to have three or four inches taken 
from its end, so as to cause it to make stronger lateral 
branches, and so produce fruit without any breaking down. 
Like all other fruits, the thinning out when one-fourth 
grown of one-fourth of the fruit will cause the balance to 
become larger, and fully pay the expense of pruning from 
its increased value. 

Of varieties, the Apple-shaped or Orange-shaped has 
long been counted the most tender and best. The For- 



IC>6 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 

tugal is, however, superior in quality, but not as pro- 
ductive. Rea's Seedling has a reputation over the Apple 
ox Orange shaped. It is somewhat larger, but not as pro- 
ductive. The most productive and profitable as a market 
sort is the Angers. The trees are healthy, very productive, 
and when well ripened and colored will rarely be classed 
by dealers as other than the Apple or Orange. 

The Pear-shaped is unworthy of culture, and there is a 
sweet quince, but it is doubtful whether it will fill the 
place of others. 



ADDENDA 



HOME ADORNMENTS.— THE BEAUTIFYING THEREOF. 

The enthusiastic, energetic, world benefiting publisher 
of this little book, has insisted upon something touching 
the naming of some of the best flowering shrubs, roses, 
budding-out plants, perennials, low growing evergreens, 
vines, etc., etc., and, rather than neglect a duty, we shall 
attempt to write somewhat of practical use. We do not 
propose to write an essay on aesthetic horticulture or the 
science of the art, for all such are but as the bloom from 
seed first sown in the garden of Eden. But when one 
has an old barren piece of ground with a tenement upon 
it, we wish to show how a few hardy flowering shrubs 
and seeds can make of it a place of beauty, where the 
children can play and enjoy themselves without hindrance 
or scoffing from their neighbors. 

Strange ideas enter into the minds of many persons, 
when the subject of beautifying home surroundings is 
mentioned in their presence. They will usually utter the 
far too common and absurd remark that such things are 
costly, and it is only the rich who can afford them. It 
certainly costs no more, as a general rule, to build a house 
ten rods from the highway than one as many feet from it ; 
and still these latter unsuitable and inappropriate locations 



IOS ADDENDA. 

are being occupied almost every day. If lawns are named, 
rollers, particular kinds of seeds, and lawn mowers are 
brought to mind ; and while we are ready to admit that 
a good lawn cannot be made nor kept in first-rate con- 
dition without these implements, still a grass plat, large 
or small, occasionally mown, is far better than none. 
Even a meadow or pasture in front or near a dwelling 
might add something to its general good appearance. 

The far too common style of arrangement of country 
homes, is to place the mansion within a few feet of the 
public road, the barn a few rods in the rear, and the in- 
tervening space is filled with wood piles or necessary out- 
buildings. If there is a kitchen garden it is usually situ- 
ated near the road, at one side of the house, and then 
enclosed with a picket fence, painted white or white- 
washed. Where a man owns but a fraction of an acre, 
such a cluttered arrangement may be admissible and 
passed without comment ; but upon farms of many acres 
in extent, it not only shows a sad want of taste, but of 
broad ideas in regard to the fitness of things in general. 
A few trees from the forest, planted here and there, cost 
but little or nothing, and yet how much they add to the 
beauty and elegance of home surroundings, besides afford- 
ing an agreeable shade in summer to both man and beast. 

Our idea of an elegant but inexpensive home on a farm 
where pasture or a meadow is a requisite, is to so arrange 
it that with moveable fences they can pasture what may 
be termed the lawn, and yet keep the beauty of flora's 
gifts. In fact, there are many ways of making home sur- 
roundings elegant without incurring any extra expense. 



ADDENDA. I09 

Farmers in particular are prone to emagine that they can- 
not afford to spend much time or money in outside deco- 
rations of their homes, and in many instances it would 
not be advisable ; but little forethought in the general 
arrangement of buildings, planting of trees and seeding 
down land for meadows and pastures, would give to thou- 
sands of homes an air of elegance and refinement without 
a penny of additional expense. And after all it is the 
thinking that is necessary. The man who thinks learns 
to desire ; and desiring learns to act. 

And he who sees daily the products of the Creator in 
the form of blossoms to produce fruit, flower, grain or 
grass, should remember that all of this brought daily to 
the observation of his children is leading them to purity 
and truth. 

As an illustration of what may be done at a small ex- 
pense we offer the following. The property was almost a 
barren, but in five years paid $4,000 per year from the 
crops : 

The boundary line on the street and each side is grown 
with hedge of varieties — some of evergreen, some of 
flowering shrubs, willows, etc., etc. As you enter from 
the street — which is on the north of the place — at the 
left hand is the pond, about in form as per outline on 
ground plan ; at the south end is a little rock work planted 
with shrubs, vines, etc., and so more or less of rocks, 
vines, shrubs, etc., dot the banks of the pond, while trees 
of ultimate majestic growth cast their shadows over the 
water. 

Continuing on south beyond the pond is, say eighty 



I1Q ADDENDA. 

feet from it, a rustic summer house, with evergreens, 
shrubs, etc., surrounding and vines entwined upon it. 
And then the straight lines mark the rows of grapes, 
while bordering the footpath is a belt of perennials, shrubs, 
etc., etc., until you reach indications of trees by dots; 
then skipping a space of some twenty feet, for the pur- 
pose of passing a wagon, should it be desirable ever so to 
do, comes a bank, en masse, of flowering shrubs against 
the footpath, backed up with dwarf apples and pears, until 
within about twenty feet of the line boundary, which space 
is devoted to strawberries. 

Going back now to the entrance, on the right of the 
entrance and the carriage road we have beds or masses of 
rock work, evergreen and flowering shrubs, with elm, 
weeping poplar, birch, etc., while bordering the carriage 
way, most of the way to the house, are cherries. A quince 
and dwarf pear orchard is off at the right, two or three 
rows of grapes, and then the vegetable garden ; while the 
stiffness of the avenue of cherries has been broken by 
throwing out other trees and grouping from place to place, 
something as my dots indicate. 

An apple and standard pear and peach orchard is south 
of the garden plot, while on the lawn the flower beds are 
shown, cut out of and surrounded by grass. 

Directly in front of the house, some twenty feet or so 
wide, is a bank of rock work planted with vines and ever- 
green shrubs. Evergreen trees, as well as deciduous orna- 
mental sorts, are at the right of the house and in among 
the orchard. The rear portion of this place is blocked 
out and planted in lines with fruit trees, vines, small fruits, 



ADDENDA 



III 



>y 




Fig. i. — Plan of Ground. 



!I2 ADDENDA. 



in great abundance; and in the rear of the house are 
groups of deciduous and evergreen trees for screen, shel- 
ter, and ornament. 



THE ROSE. 

Now, as the Rose is the pre-eminent flower of all the 
world and holds supremacy everywhere, we will take hold 
of it as in the spring. 

The blooming season of roses is again upon us, and 
every garden is gay with flowers. The more common old 
sorts of June roses have among them many superb varie- 
ties unsurpassed in perfection of form and color of flower, 
if, indeed, they are equaled by any of the Perpetuals or 
Teas. No Perpetual or Tea can vie in black, deep, vel- 
vety richness with the old African Belle, or present the 
rich, purple red of George the Fourth; and when we 
look at Cerisette, King Richard III, and many others of 
the old Junes, we cannot refrain -from wishing them 
always with us ; but it cannot be, or rather it is not now, 
and as we must have roses all the time, now let us be 
content with the splendor of such Perpetuals as General 
Jaqueminot, or the fulness of good old Baronne Provost, 
touching up the lines with a host more of shades, then 
resting the eye for a moment on Marshal Neil — for its 
brilliancy will not admit of long continued gazing at it — 
and be satisfied. 

After all, while the old June roses are full of beauty, 



ADDENDA. 113 

yet possibly we have got about their equals when we come 
to look over ; for in fact Prince Camille de Rohan will 
almost equal in intensity of rich blackness old Belle Afri- 
caine ; and Madame Victor Verdier is quite equal to Ceri- 
sette ; and then, if we manage them rightly, they give us 
more or less of blossoms all summer long, and even up to 
the frosts of winter. 

Each planter must use his own judgment as to selection 
of kinds and classes, and so, also, as to arrangement of 
colors. We would not arrange colors at all, the more 
mixed the better — both colors and sorts, Teas, Bourbons, 
Noisettes, and Perpetuals ; only, in large beds, we should 
try to place our largest and strongest growers at the back 
and in the center, keeping the dwarf sorts, such as Du- 
petit Thouars, Bourbon, or Lady Byron, Bengal, etc., 
in front. 

TRAINING ROSES. 

There is also great diversity of opinion as to the form 
the plants should assume. A good way is the pinching 
in the ends of the shoots as they grow, and thus compel 
the plant to throw out side branches, and so perfect the 
rounded form at the same time that it increases the num- 
ber of flowers. To our eye, a bed kept in this way is 
much more attractive than when the plants are permitted 
to make long, straggling stems here and there. 

Another practice, which is also effective, is to peg down 
the shoots as they grow, and so literally carpet the whole 
ground with roses. In beds mainly composed of large old 
plants of Perpetuals the practice is a good one. Especially 
if only the long canes of the last year are pegged, while 



II4 ADDENDA. 

the older or two or more years ' wood is all cut away ; but 
in newly planted beds, or those of mixed sorts, we prefer 
pinching to form little bushes. 

The ground for roses cannot be too deep, nor too rich, 
if only the enriching compost be well and thoroughly 
rotted. Roses budded give larger and better blooms than 
when grown on their own roots, but so few appear to 
recognize the necessity of cutting away the suckers which 
at times come from the stock, that it is advisable to plant 
only those grown on their own roots. If, however, the 
plants camiot be had otherwise than budded, then always 
plant so as to cover the point where the bud was inserted 
at least two inches in the ground, and then, if you wish 
to make the plant strike roots from itself, as soon as it is 
well established take a knife and make a few slight notches 
just at the point where it is budded, and from these 
notches, or wounds, new roots will soon strike, and when 
well grown the old root below can be cut away. 

FORMS OF ROSES. 

In almost every catalogue descriptive of 
roses, as well as in the rose books, there 
are certain terms used to indicate the forms 
of flowers — terms which, though apparently 
plain, yet are often seemingly misunder- 
cupped. stood. We copy here sketches of the forms 
of roses, with their appropriate terms. 

Although the actual form of a flower varies with its 
growth — some roses being globular when partly blown, 
and cupped or expanded when fully developed — it should 




ADDENDA. 



"5 



always be understood that this point should be decided 
when the flower is at its best, or just before its " blase " 




EXPANDED. 



REFLEXED. 





GLOBULAR. HALF CUPPED. 

development by sun and air, and that its true contour can 
be most distinctively ascertained from a profile view, the 
flower being held level with the eye, because then dif- 
ferences can be most distinctively perceived. 

PLANTING ROSES. 

Roses may be planted at any time in the growing season, 
because nearly all commercial rose growers on a large 
scale have them in pots from which they can be trans- 
ferred to the ground at any time without risk. In trans- 
ferring roses grown in the open ground, of course early 
Spring or Fall must be the time ; but in our experience 
some of the best rose beds — filled with blooms up to 
Winter's frosts — that we ever saw, were turned into the 
ground from the pots in June. 



Il6 ADDENDA 



GOOD ROSES NAMED. 



Among the many good roses, let us name the following, 
although there are many more perhaps equally good ; in- 
deed, we suppose the first reader will accuse us of leaving 
out one with which he is acquainted and that he thinks 
best of all ; but as we can 't print the whole list of many 
hundreds, we must risk our list, knowing that all in it are 
good. 

Of Hybrid Perpetuah. — Mademoiselle Jennie Maux is 
a new one of bright rose color, large and of fine form. 
Beauty of Waltham is a bright rosy crimson, very large, 
and a free bloomer. Chas. Rouillard is of a bright rose 
color, large and full, and a free bloomer. Francis Arago 
is of a rich, velvety maroon. General Washington is a 
brilliant rosy carmine, almost scarlet, also a free bloomer. 
George Prince is of a dazzling red, tinged with rose. 
Mademoiselle Bertha Seveque is a pure white, with a 
shade or tint of rose color late in Autumn. Maurice Ber- 
nardine is a brilliant vermillion, blooming in clusters. 
President Lincoln is a dark red, with a crimson shade. 
Panache d 'Orleans is a white and rose color striped. 

Of Bourbons. — Appoline is a light pink ; Blanche Lafitte 
is flesh color; Decandole is purplish red ; Hermosa, rosy 
blush ; Souvenir de Malmaison, clear, flesh color ; Louis 
Margottin a satiny rose color. 

In Teas and China and Bengal Roses one can hardly go 
amiss, for all are good, and each one you buy and flower 
will beget a desire for another. 



ADDENDA 



117 




LAYERING ROSES. 

This is a very simple and easy way of propagating 
hardy roses ; and the last of June is a good time to do it. 
Select a good strong shoot that has just done flowering, 
bend it over and see just where it will come when pegged 
down, then excavate a little trench on the line four inches 
deep; if the soil is clayey, scatter on the bottom of this 
trench an inch of sandy loam, then bend down the branch, 
fasten it with the pegtf in sketch ; then take a sharp knife 
and cut a notch on the upper side, b, or make a long slit, 
as you please ; but if you choose the latter, insert between 
a bit of stick or a pebble stone ; then bend up the shoot, 
as shown in sketch, and fill in with sandy soil, pressing it 
firm with your hand, but avoid treading for fear you will 
break the layer. 

The dirt being filled in around it, trim off the half ripe 
wood and leaves, leaving about four to five of the strongest 
and about as many inches of wood above ground ; finally, 
finish by scattering over and all around for a foot or more 
a mulch of either new mown grass, straw, moss, etc., to 
keep an even temperature and assist the root formation at 



n8 



ADDENDA. 



the point where you made the cut. The soil is warm, but 
if you let the sun on strong, and a dry time comes, the 
young roots that are naturally forced out of the plant will 
decay . 




ADDENDA. 119 

Herewith we show an illustration of how a rose can be 
trained to make a perfect rounded mass of bloom. Two 
to three inches of the main stem at the base have all the 
buds nibbed out, and any suckers from the roots below 
are destroyed. When the plant has made six inches of 
growth pinch the ends of the upright shoots and throw 
strength into the side branches. Continue this course as 
the plant grows, and with many varieties the illustration 
given will be overshadowed. 

Ere we leave the roses let us say that where the Bour- 
bons, Noisettes, Chinas, Teas, etc., are often winter killed 
if left out in the open ground ; that if they are taken up 
ere there is two inches deep of frost in the earth, and 
heeled in to a common hot-bed frame, then covered with 
small brush and over that a covering of leaves, then boards 
put over so that water will not come in, they will find the 
roots of the plants in spring as good as new. When plant- 
ing out be careful to keep the roots from the air, and cut 
the tops down to three or four inches from the crown of 
the roots. All varieties are the better for being cut down 
near the ground in early spring, then the leading shoots 
pinched back from time to time and the faded flowers 
picked off. Never refuse to give your friend a boquet of 
roses if you do not cut the fresh opening buds. This re- 
mark I acknowledge is a little out of my line, for I always 
cut the faded roses and drop them on the ground, while 
I put the buds and half blown ones into my friends hands. 
Each year brings new varieties of roses, and while we 
cannot give the whole list, we will here give a short list 
of the latest and best new ones : 



120 ADDENDA. 

May Turner — English Verdier. — A very hardy Hy- 
bred Perpetual rose of 1875; the foliage light green; 
flowers large, full and of good form, of a delicate salmon- 
rose, with the under surface of the petals of a deeper 

shade. 

Reine des Massifs — Levet. — A vigorous new Noisette 
rose of 1875. Flowers medium in size ; fine salmon-yel- 
low, sometimes coppery, magnificent ; of a very free 
blooming habit ; adapted for masses. 

Bernard Verlot — Eng. Verdier. — A Hybrid Per- 
petual rose of 1875 ; the flowers large, full and finely 
formed, in the way of Lord Raglan, but more globular; 
poppy reel, the center shaded with violet-purple; very 
hardy and well spoken of. 

Shirley Hikberd— Levct. — A new Tea Rose of 1875 
and quite new in color, being a handsome nankeen yel- 
low. The flowers of medium size, full, of a flattish cup 
form, and very freely borne. 

Antoine Mouton — Levet. — A Hybrid Perpetual Rose 
of 1875 5 flowers very large and full, well formed, in the 
way of Centifolia : beautiful bright pink color, reverse of 
the petals silvery ; plant vigorous ; extra good. 

Marie Guillot — Guillot Junior. — A new Tea Rose of 
1875, vigorous in its habit of growth, clothed with hand- 
some foliage of good substance. Superb, nearly white 
flowers, just faintly tinged with a delicate shade of lemon. 

Monsieur E. Y. Teas — Eng. Verdier. — This Hybrid 
Perpetual Rose is a large rose, the color deep cerise red, 
bright and striking; of globular shape, full and well 
formed . 



ADDENDA. 121 



Jean Ducher — Madame Ditcher. — \ very vigorous 
growing new Tea Rose of 1875, with large, handsome 
and healthy foliage. It has proved to be a very free 
bloomer ; the flowers are large, full and globular, salmon- 
yellow, the interior shaded with peach color. 

Perle de Lyon. — A magnificent rose, and a rival to 
the celebrated Marechal Niel. The flowers are large, of 
firm texture, and of a richer, deeper yellow than M.Niel, 
holding on well ; of exquisite shape and borne freely on 
short shoots, as it is not of a running habit. 

The following are new English varieties. All are Hybrid 
Perpetuals, except Dutchess of Edinburgh : 

Climbing Jules Margottin — Cranston. — A sprot from 
Jules Margottin ; flowers exactly similar to its parent ; a 
free and vigorous climber, branching freely. A great 
acquisition as a free growing, perpetual climbing rose, of 
handsome form and color, growing from eight to ten feet 
in a season. 

Crimson Bedder — Cranston. — As a crimson bedding 
rose this variety is said to surpass every other rose for 
brilliancy of color and perpetual blooming ; its habit of 
growth is moderate and the shoots short jointed, pro- 
ducing a mass- of flowers all over the bed from June till 
November. Color, scarlet and crimson, very effective and 
lasting; foliage, clean, glossy, and free from mildew. 

John Stuart Mill — Turner. — A fine flower of superb 
form ; of a bright, clear red color, very rich and distinct ; 
large globular and very full. An excellent exhibition 



122 • ADDENDA. 

flower and useful for garden decoration ; its constitution 
is good and its habit of flowering free. 

Miss Hassard — Turner. — In the way of Baronness 
Rothschild and much better; the flowers are large, very- 
double, of a beautiful flesh pink, with petals of splendid 
substance and delightfully fragrant. It is a vigorous grower 
and a very desirable acquisition . 

Rev. J. B. M. Camm — Turner. — Very deep rose-pink 
flowers, large and of a beautiful globular form and of 
superb quality; very sweet and constant. 'In color, 
form, and exquisite fragrance all that can be desired." 

Royal Standard — Turner. — Flowers large, of a soft, 
satiny-rose color, wonderfully full and exquisitely formed. 

Star of Waltham — Wm. Paul. — Deep crimson, color 
very rich and effective ; a magnificent flower of immense 
size , very double . Foliage very large, without being coarse , 
of a rich dark green color, forming a beautiful contrast 
with the flowers. 

Duchess of Edinburgh — Veitch. — "This new Tea 
Rose will make the eyes of Rosarians sparkle with de- 
light." Flowers, brilliant vermillion shaded with a rich 
velvety maroon, very large indeed, and full in the highest 
sense of the word. The foliage is handsome, of a rich 
dark green color, and finely serrated. 

ROSES IN POTS FOR HOUSE CULTURE. 

Nearly all of the classes called Tea, or Bengal, are 
adapted to the growing in pots, and kept in the ordinary 
sitting room of the family. Duchess de Brabant, Bella, 



ADDENDA. 1 23 

Bon Silene, Saffrano, and Isabella Sprunt rank among the 
best for this purpose. To make . sure of having good 
blooms in winter, the plants should have been grown in 
pots during the summer previous, and not too much ex- 
posed to the sun or the pots exposed, but either plunged 
in the ground or wrapped with moss or grass and kept 
cool. If during winter the green aphis gets upon the 
plant, make some weak tobacco water, warm — not hot — 
and dip the plants into them, immediately thereafter into 
clean, soft, tepid water. 

Hardy bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Lilies, 
etc., make up great beauty in a homestead, and they may 
be planted, and as they grow in spring, flowers of Verbenas, 
Petunias, Sweet A ly sum, Aster, Balsam or Lady's Slipper, 
Carnation, Pinks of varieties, Clarkia, Sweet Pear, Helio- 
trope, Lantana, Lychnis, Crocus, Narcissus, Nasturtium, 
Phlox Drummondi, Portulacca, Salvia Tube roses and 
Zinnias may be worked in to make up the beds of floral 
beauty around the house. 

And now we will say to our readers that the formation 
for beds for flowering summer plants, such as Geraniums, 
Petunias, Salvias, Herbaceous Paeonias, equal in beauty 
to Rhododendrons or Tree Paeonias, Phloxes, Chrysan- 
theunms, Double Flowering Hollyhocks and Dahlias, 
mingling with them many of the hardy perennials as the 
Achillea, Aconitum, Aquilygea, Bocconia, Campanula of 
many colors ; Iris of over seventeen varieties ; Liatris, 
Sedums of more than twenty varieties and of great beauty 
in a rough, rocky bed ; Spirea,s Statice, Tritoma, Veroni- 
cas, Vincas and Yuccas, that from these plants, oval beds 



124 ADDENDA. 

or diamond formed, or made from the shape of an oak or 
maple leaf. Studying the subject quietly, and then in 
preparing the bed make it four to six inches higher in the 
center, and planting the strongest growing plants and 
deepest colored flowers in the center, toning out to the 
border with low growing light colored flowers. 

Again we will suggest that we make groups of Hardy 
Deciduous Flowering Shrubs. Suppose our border be 
oblong in form along the foot-path, or breaking the form 
of a carriage road, let us use varieties of Altheas for the 
center, surround them with varieties of Wiegelas ; then 
again a belt of tree or upright Honeysuckles, then with 
Lilacs mingled with the shrubby Hydrangeas, then here 
and there a purple Magnolia and two or three varieties of 
the Japan Quince; now two or three of Syrengas, and 
then bound the whole with Spireas, Calycanthus and 
Deutzias. 

So much for a group of Hardy Flowering Shrubs. Now 
suppose we take a long oval bed of twenty by forty feet, 
and count it a break from the front lawn, overlooked by 
the windows and porches in front of the house. Suppose 
we plant at each end of the oval a Juniperus, prost rata, 
densata nana, repens, Squamata, Sabina a I pin a and Nipar- 
tita : next back of them, or if you will, intermingled by one 
who knows of their growth, Sabina Tamarisci folia, Sabina 
variagata, CJiincnsis oblonga pendula, recuma, densa, Ree- 
vesii Rigila, T/iurifera, Virginiana Pendula ; and next in 
back of the foregoing to fill up the center, fore and back 
ground — Abies Excelsa Inverta, A. Excelsa Mucronata, 
A. Excelsa Pygmcea, A . canadensis , A. canadensis nana, 



ADDENDA. 125 

A. canadensis microphylla, A. Pumila Nigra, Pinus stra- 
bus niua, T/un'a occidentalis pendula, Thuja Hoveyi, Thuja 
Siberica, Thuja conpacata, TJiuja Pygnuea, Pinus pumila, 
Pinus Mug ho, Pinus Mug ho Rot un data, Pinus Con bra. 
There is the grouping and rilling of the whole shade from 
the Euyonymus or Strawberry Tree, or Burning Bush as 
it is variously called. The Berberry, Cornus or Dog- 
wood, Forsythia, High Bush Cranberry, Japan Quince, 
in varieties, mingled indiscriminately at distances of two 
to four feet apart in the bed, and yearly pruned back to 
keep a true yet graceful form. 

In cemeteries or burial grounds, this grouping of low 
growing evergreens, shrubs, such as Deutzia Spirea, Weep- 
ing Norway Spruce, and other low growing evergreen 
shrubs, is far better than planting large growing trees 
upon small lots. The large growing trees in a cemetery, 
or a small* house ground, should mainly be planted on 
the road lines'. 



INDEX 



A. 

PAGE. 

Apple — Pruning, &c, '. 25 to 28 

Varieties, 65 to 76 

How to grow from seed, 9, 10 

How to bud or graft, 14 to 22 

with tables and list for latitudes, 66 to 76 

Apples Crab, illustrated,. 74 

Acclimation, etc, 96 

Apricots, 83 

B. 

Budding — How to do it, 14 to 17 

Blackberries, 59 to 61 

Best Age for Transplanting., 11 

Black Knot, 98 

C. 

Curculio, 96 to 98 

Cuttings, 14, 21, 22, 30, 31, 33 

Cherries, with table and descriptions, 82 to 87 

Cherries illustrated, 88 

G. 

Grafting, 13 to 22 

Grape Layering, 23 

Grape Pruning, 30 to 34 



INDEX. 127 

PAGE. 

Grape Planting, 35 to 37 

Grapes— When and How to Prune, 37 to 40 

Grape Trellis 43 to 45 

H. 

History and Value of Fruits, 5 

How to Grow from Seed, 9 

How to Prune the Grape, 38 to 45 

I. 
Insects, 96 

L. 
Latitudes, in every case refer to the apple, 

N. 
Nectarines 89 

P. 

Peach, with table list of varieties,. . .' 90 to 95 

The table and list has been made with care and thought. 

Pear, with table, history, origin, and value of varieties for 

varied sections, 76 to 82 

Pear illustrated, 80 

Plum, with history, insects, and table of discription, 95 to 103 

Quince, description of values, modes of growing, etc., . . l(fe to 106 

R. 
Raspberries, culture, descriptions, etc. , 52 to 59 

S. 
Strawberries, varieties, culture, etc. , 46 to 52 



128 INDEX ADDENDA. 

ADDENDA. 
This portion of the Index is distinct from that on Fruits. 

PAGE. 

Bulbs, tender 123 

Dwarf evergreens, 124 to 125 

Decoration of cemetery lots, 125 

Home adornments, 107 to 112 

Hardy Bulbs —varieties, 125 

Herbaceous Paeonies, 123 

How to prepare the ground and form a bed, 123 to 124 

Hardy Flowering Shrubs, 124 

The Rose 112 to 118 

Training Roses, 113 

Forms of Roses, 114 to 115 

Planting Roses, 115 

Good Roses named, 116 

Hybrid Perpetuals, 116 

Bourbons, 116 

Teas and Chinas, 116 

Layering Roses, 117 

Careing for Roses in winter, 119 

Rare new Roses 119 to 122 

Roses in pots for house culture, 122 



